Dam the Water – Victoria & Randenigala…

Hello everyone, how are things with you all? Hope you all had an adventurous but safe holiday. It’s been a fabulous one with rain occupying most of the country. Well I didn’t mean to be harsh on the rain affected victims who have lost their loved ones, properties and other valuables due to the severe weather. The saying “one’s sorrow is another’s joy” seems to be very true. While many were affected and suffering, some others like me reveled in the increased flow of water hunting waterfalls through landslides, fallen rocks and caved in roads.

Mandaram Nuwara and surrounding areas brought plenty of joy to me and I was dreaming about the spills of Victoria dam when I reached home on the 26th Dec night. Spending cozily the following day I got a call from Hasi, who I started my waterfall frenzy with (of course good old Tony was there too), asking about the situation of Victoria. Well, the joy was immense when he said that he was planning to visit the site on the following day, Sunday, 28th Dec. The life can’t be sweeter, can it? Not 36 hours before I was dreaming about this and here I am being offered a chance on a platter.

We had to take stock of the road conditions as the Kandy-Mahiyangana A26 was blocked at many places by severe landslides. Thankfully, on our way from Rikillagaskada, I saw a big notice board welcoming the visitors to the Victoria Dam. That road was not so dangerous as the A26 so we decided to take it. That road is the Kandy-Rikillagaskada-Padiyapelella-Walapane (B413) and turn off at Uda Mailapitiya taking the Adikarigama-Randenigala (B492). This is the Kandy-Badulla road that goes through Randenigala.

Mostly used road is the one along A26 up to Medamahanuwara then turn into the Medamahanuwara-Adikarigama (B493) that runs through the Victoria dam. However we were skeptical about this due to landslides and resorted to the former choice. We finalized the journey around 8.30pm and decided to leave at 5am. Hasi’s wife and one of his friends, Gayan, too joined for the trip making it a full package for his car. We were excited and looking forward to the sight of the biggest dam in Sri Lanka.

Spills of Victoria are something you don’t get to see every now and then so this was going to be something unique and grand.

We all got ready and met up around 5am and drove towards Mawanella where we stopped for breakfast. Then while the rain kept hampering the normalcy of day-to-day lives, we went with millions of hopes for Victoria.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Victoria Dam & Reservoir, Adikarigama.
2. Hakuruthale Ella, Hakuruthale.
3. Kohombagana Ella, Kohombagana.
4. Randenigala Dam & Reservoir.
5. Seasonal Cascades, Bogahalanda.
6. Mahadoraliyadda Ella, Mahadoraliyadda, Medamahanuwara.
7. Wegala Ella, Wegala, Medamahanuwara.

Victoria Dam & Reservoir

We passed many landslides and rocks that had just been cleared from the roads. A few houses were either fallen along with slides or on the verge of going down. We came to the Uda Mailapitiya where we turned to the Adikarigama. There is a signage welcoming visitors to the Victoria dam larger than life at the turning.

Driving along about 7km passing Adikarigama to the turn to the dam. According to the notice there, it’s 4km from here to the dam. However right at the turn we met with terrible news. There was a villager who said that they don’t allow visitors to the dam due to a fight between some visitors and the Mahaweli security officers. As a result, the security is not letting anyone in but we could get a view close to the gate outside the premises. Oh dear, had we come all this way for a no show?

I felt terrible but we carried on and on the way we could see a thick cloud like appearing from the trees below. This was the unmistakable water vapor rising up after hitting the base. We reached the gate and there were a couple of vehicles already parked and their occupants peeping over the edge of the road with open mouths and eyes. We went straight to the closed gate and found a couple of army soldiers and a single Mahaweli security officer. They didn’t even come to the gate but kept looking at with us grim-faced.

When asked if we could go in, the Mahaweli security officer said that we couldn’t and offered a reason saying that there’s a threat of landslides. There was even a tiny handwritten cardboard notice stuck on the gate saying the area is a danger zone. The number of people who were coming increased by a few times within a very short period but the security firmly stood his ground. We had no choice but to join the group of people peering at the spill from the road. Out of the 8 gates, 6 were open and from them shot six gigantic snake like bodies of water making huge mushrooms at the end before falling back into the base sending millions of water droplets like a huge cloud that dissipated gradually floating in the air. We’ve seen this so many times on TV but nothing like doing so for real.

We could unfortunately see only a small portion of the whole package. The all eight spills were visible but we couldn’t see the whole affair from where we stood. What a dilemma? However, Gayan took out his binocular and after short inspection exclaimed saying that there are people on the dam. Looking closely we saw them and to make things more complicated, there were a few vehicles as well. There was even a tuk-tuk going along the dam with car and a double cab too. While we were shooting away, there was a vanful of people who went straight up to the gate and after a talk with the Mahaweli security officer, they were allowed in. What on earth was happening?

After a bit, the same Mahaweli security officer allowed another double cab to the premises while so many others who had come from all over the country. When we inquired we were told that they had passes. It was a very feeble attempt by the Mahaweli security officers and we realized there’s no hope for us. It’s strange how even earth slips treat different people in a different manner. If earth slips do that, what’s the point in talking about humans? We left forlornly hoping to get at least to the Randenigala dam which is another 34km away.

He too had joined the procession to witness this

Was on this branch the whole time not moving away

The horrible cables

Oh, she’s in full flow

Eight falls falling in unison

A clear shot of the top

The best we could get

Helping hand from Hasi’s wife

The gates up close

Hmmm

But not dangerous for a selected few

A touch of sunlight was lacking

The reservoir and islands in the middle

Nice and calm

Lady bird crawling along

Surrounding mountains

Leaf-less

Hakuruthale Ella

This was my first time along this road and what a treat it was for the mind and the eyes. The majestic Victoria-Randenigala-Rantembe reservoir was to our left right along full to the brim while the Victoria-Randenigala-Rantembe forest and wildlife reserve on both sides added that fresh greenish tinge having washed away all the dust and grime off their leaves and barks. The sky nevertheless looked grey and was about to unload her load. There was a mist too hung along the hilltops as if icing on the cake. Amid all this was the black tarred road snaking around the hill terrain. What a beautiful picture this really was. Our disappointment not being able to see the mighty Victoria seemed far away.

This is when we came to a fairly large waterfall to our right in Hakuruthale area. She was sliding down a rocky surface and plunged under the bridge and on the other side fell further down. We got down and started shooting away when we spotted the beautiful and fairly big upper part hiding as usual behind trees. However she had kept a very good opening a little further down that was missed by the casual onlookers. However we didn’t miss that and thanks to the zoom, managed to capture that part as well.

She was gorgeous and the rains had been kind to her filling her with much needed water. I’m sure on a normal day, she wouldn’t look much and nobody is likely to give a second thought. This really was a big bonus. We passed a couple more waterfalls in Bogahalanda are but didn’t stop hoping to capture them on our return but Hakuruthale Ella was simply too irresistible to leave like that.

Towards Randenigala

One of the power plants

Hakuruthale Ella

Lower part

Upper part hidden by the bushes but we found an opening

Main body

There’s the hidden top

Closer

Finally this

Zoomed in

Portrait of the bottom

Kohombagana Ella

We carried on hoping to get to Randenigala as quickly as possible but it wasn’t to be. Just around Kohombagana, before the town and around 15-16km posts, we saw yet another beauty who was beckoning to us through the jungle. Well, one couldn’t refuse a beautiful girl’s call, can they?

We obliged fully by spending another good 15-20mins with this playful sweetie. I’ll just let the pictures tell you why it was simply impossible not to have stopped. After the rituals, we drove on.

The signs of a mother elephant taking her baby to the school yielded a gasp from Hasi’s wife. But we assured her this was the school holidays and they likely have gone to some place like Maduru Oya or Minneriya visiting their relatives. This seemed to subside her fears and we drove on savoring the never ending greenery and water.

What a beauty!

The top part partially blocke by a tree

Such a gorgeous one

Closer

The lower part

Good-bye lass

Randenigala Dam & Reservoir

We reached the magical place around midday. The dam unlike the concrete and curvy Victoria, was built of stones and straight in shape. She has only 3 spillways. When we got out of the vehicle, already a handful of onlookers were lurking around.

Randenigala dam is located just by the main road and has no problem getting a good look compared to Victoria where they can close the gates either side of the dam about 500m each from it on either side. However you’re not permitted to walk along the dam itself but it’s still possible for you know who.

At first there was nothing but the long dam, the spills were there but nothing was jumping out like at Victoria. Gosh, nothing to see was my first thought but it didn’t last long as I spotted a mist drifting away further down. Oh my gosh, the spills were open all right but unlike the Victoria, the water wasn’t released immediately out of the spills as it could endanger the dam itself. Remember Victoria is curved inward spreading the water pressure giving it a more stability and strength. The water comes out of the dam into the pit of the half circle and it doesn’t endanger the base of the dam due to this shape. However straight dams can’t afford to do this. Instead they use this trick of building diagonal slopes away from the dam taking the water about 100m away and release the water from there.

So the mushroom effects occur away from the dam. Even though not as dramatic as Victoria, Randenigala is not less beautiful. Out of the 3 spills, only 2 were open. The third was under maintenance. So, the water comes out of the spills then start their 100m slide towards the bottom. As soon as water reaches the bottom, it jumps out of the slide into the air creating two gigantic cockerel tails with two mushrooms at the zenith of this. Finally the cloud of droplets is released into the air. If you still can’t picture the process, as I’m sure it must be as Randenigala is not shown like Victoria, Hasi’s wife got the answer for you. Just think about the Log Flume. The process is more or less the same.

The worst part is the shorter road that goes across the water below the dam, about 500m from it, joining B492 & B474. This is the road that goes to Mahiyanganaya via Rantambe. The bridge across the river along with Army and Dam Officials’ barracks had been wiped away clean by the water out of the spills. Only the legs of the bridge were visible and everything else had been taken away by the gushing water. According to the soldiers on guard, the damage had been done the day before after which the gates were closed. The gates had been reopened on the morning of the day we went around 3am. They further revealed this was the worst spills ever since the dam was built.

The reservoir looked serene and still, the hills in the distance marked the boundary and acted as the guards. A thin layer of mist circled the tops and some drifted towards the reservoir. We decided to go down to where the bridge was broken so that we could get a frontal view and check the damage caused by the unforgiving water. The turn off to the road was barricaded but not limited to the public so we had no problem walking through. Already a large crowd was gathering and when we walked a couple of hundred meters, could see the beauty of this.

The carpeted road had been ripped off and shredded into large pieces before dumping them around. The skeleton legs stood helplessly, their body torn out and sent down stream. Barracks and few other structures lay along the banks of the river in pieces. Shredded wood splinters were floating around while the foundations stood barely out of ground. The devastation was immense and losing the bridge is a big blow to the public. It doesn’t look like the bridge will be built anytime soon. After taking pictures to the satisfaction of our hearts, we decided to go for another shot at the Victoria.

On the way, we saw a big lorry carrying a load of sand had stopped and the driver and his assistant on the back peering at something. We stopped at Hasi’s Wife’s command and reversed all to the lorry and jumped out. Through the thick bushes, we could see the Victoria and got the permission to join them on the back of the lorry. Getting onto the lorry wasn’t so easy and Hasi enjoyed taking some pictures. The view wasn’t that good coz still there were a few branches blocking the view and the camera simply won’t accept the fact that it has to focus the spills in the distance not the branches in front. So I had to do something and got down again to clear those with a stick then got back again, this time panting, huffing and puffing. The view was a lot better and managed to take a few pictures after all.

Afterwards we planned to head to Thannekumbura and take the A26 and use the 8km stretch off Medamahanuwara. We all still were bitter about the bad experience received at Victoria having come all the way and decided the least we could do was try everything possible. As usual, none of us bothered about lunch, Hasi had taken his gastritis pill and must have informed his wife and Gayan not to expect any lunch when going with me. So let’s go see if we’ll be lucky enough.

Click image to enlarge

Surrounding

Placid

Amazing contrast

The right most spill under maintenance

Through the gate

The road along the dam is blocked to the general public

What can you say to this?

Whooaaah!!!

Speechless

The mighty creation

One under maintenance

The whole dam

Picturesque

Amazing scenery

Power plant

Opened spills

View

The turn off to the Mahiyangana Road

Frontal view

Zoomed

Walking towards it

Ferocious flow of water

Part of the destruction

The remains of the bridge

It was like a cloud

Had to stay behind these tress to take the pics

Got soaked up taking this

Unbelievable amount of water

Can you see the destruction?

Going back

Gayan not done yet

They were almost forgotten

Misty hill tops

That road won’t be operational anytime soon

Climbing up – Pic by Hasitha

Can’t see much – Pic by Hasitha

There are trees blocking – Pic by Hasitha

Trying to clear the view – Pic by Hasitha

Blocked by the bushes

Clearer

Better now

Wish could get closer

Cascades around Bogahalanda

We made good time, avoiding the fallen rocks and earth at places. We nevertheless didn’t forget to stop whenever a cascade or a good view available. We passed the Kohombagana Ella and then Hakuruthale Ella. They both had more water than before and looked breath-taking.

Passing Hakuruthale we reached Bogahalanda. From here to Adikarigama there were quite a few beautiful cascades we stopped to enjoy. Most if not all must be seasonal cascades but the beauty was all the same. The rain had stopped and we enjoyed the breakthrough. The time was running out but we simply couldn’t resist the temptation. Finally we reached Adikarigama and the turn off to Victoria dam was there. We all felt the bitterness and yet decided to take another chance with those stubborn and double-standard security people. So we turned into the road and there was a security guard planted there who was trying his best to turn the people around. When we told him how the people got in before, he seemed to shrink and from the guilty look he gave I realized that there was no point taking it any further. He finally admitted contacts of Mahaweli officials were allowed in and few minutes ago the divisional secretary had also been.

So with frustration welling inside us, we drove on hoping for better luck from the other end. However it must be noted that while we were talking to the security, there was a busload of people coming especially to see the spill. Hundreds maybe thousands of people were denied access while a selected few were given free access to witness one in a lifetime opportunity. We kept hearing about the story about the fight between the security and some visitors recently and everyone, including locals, said that was the reason not to let anyone in. It was their way of taking revenge on the incident it seems. As a result, many innocent people had to go empty handed.

By the way close to Adikarigama, we saw a big tipper lorry carrying sand was parked by the road and two people (driver and the assistant) on the back peering at something. Hasi’s wife (I guess she was the most frustrated out of all) pointed at them and said they must be looking at the spills. We broke hard and reversed. Getting out I found this was to be the case, and getting permission, I got on top the back to see we can get a glimpse of the spill through trees. Hasi and Gayan too got in the back and started firing away with the cameras. The driver and the assistant kept looking at the drama created by us than at the spills. We thanked them profusely and found it so difficult to get down. I’m still wondering how on earth we got on top in the first place.

Seasonal cascades

Closer

Like Jodu Ella

Base

Placid reservoir, but can you see a falls?

Now?

Just look at that

Hills in the middle

Posing shyly

Isolated road

Removing the rubble off the roads

Many scary places like these

Another roadside beauty

Another day, this would be nothing but a rocky slab

Sliding along

To the base

Never ending hills and mountains

Many more like this

Hugging the rock

Where we improvised

Zoomed all the way, wish the view was a bit more clearer

Victoria from Medamahanuwara, Mahadoraliyadda Ella & Wegala Ella

We drove and on the way bought some boiled corn to munch on the way. Turning to A26, we saw the Mahaweli river angry looking with brown cheeks. The water levels were very high and passing that we drove through Kundasale, Pallekele, Theldeniya and Digana.

The landslides were very severe on this road and there were many houses either completely or partially destroyed as a result. We saw people staring at the destruction with bewildered looks. Reaching Medamahanuwara we took the right turn. Victoria dam is 8km away. It runs through Mahadoraliyadda village and we saw some more fallen rocks and earth on this road too. Reaching the closed gates, for the second (rather third as we went twice on the other side) was heartbreaking, lemme tell you.

There were around 200 people waiting expectantly and on our way, we must have come across around 100 vehicles. Just imagine the time and money wasted by all this. The day being a Sunday attracted many more people but with nothing to show for their trouble.

We got the same answer by the soldiers who once again admitted that many people with connections were allowed in while thousands had to turn back empty-handed. They even said that the rules were made and broken by the officials as and when they wanted but their hands, as Army soldiers, were tied. They were sorry people thinking bad about them and cursing them for not being allowed to see this.

I feel they could have at least broadcast on TV and radio informing people not to come giving the earth slips story. If so most of the people wouldn’t have taken the trouble. When the TV channels show the spills in full flow, anyone who is human enough, would wanna go see it. It’s a crime to waste their efforts like this.

Returning we stopped half way to photograph the Mahadoraliyadda Ella that like the Mulgama Lower Falls & Gartmore Falls, fell directly into the reservoir. However she isn’t that big. The gloomy surrounding was not ideal for landscape shots but that was all we had.

We reached the main road and turned back towards Kandy. Around Wegala, we saw this huge Wegala Ella full of water. This is located close to the Wegala School at a bridge. There was a group of people bathing in the base despite the heavy rains.

From the gate but no entrance

From Mahadoraliyadda

The bridge at Mahadoraliyadda

Here’s the falls

Closer

Falling directly onto the reservoir

Zoomed in

Wegala Falls

Full of water

Upper part

Bottom, had to wait those bathers go away to take this

See you later girl when you’re full again

Here are some of the Panos I took.

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 4

We came back to Kandy in heavy rains. It was saddening to see people trying to make a living by selling boiled corn to the travelers in the rain and at many places, dangerously close to the land slides. They had no choice but to go for it as it must have been their only income.

Passing through the wet and muddy roads, we stopped for a decent meal (What I call “Dinch” or “Lunner”. Similar to “Brunch”) at Benthota Bake House at Pilimathalawa. We were all hungry beyond words and gobble down everything put down before us. The traffic was insane and Hasi took the burden of driving all day and finally when the clock chimed 10.30pm, we had driven close to 500km.

Gosh, I’m angry, sad, excited, happy and so much more. Well at least we gave our best shot and that was all we could do. Even though we failed to see the full package, we were at least got lucky to see a little bit. Most people didn’t even have that luxury.

It was a great journey after all and we enjoyed it despite being bitter at many times. We all enjoyed the scenery alike.

So, here I leave you guys for the time being. Hope the journey brought you some insight and happiness.

Till I come with another fairy tale, keep traveling and be safe.

Take care…

Sri…