Strolling through the Ancient Marvels – Pulathisipura Chapter 2…

Hello everyone, hope you’ve had a great time especially after the Pulathisipura Chapter 1. Tell me I managed to massage your urge to go see them as soon as possible. If you got that craving and learned something useful, then I can consider myself successful and worthy of all the troubles I took. Now, if you’ve been waiting wondering where the Chapter 2 is, here it is. I’m sure you’re excited so am I, why wait any longer let’s go rock ‘n’ roll.

I left you all with a beautiful sunset over the Parakrama Samudra. The room was comfortable and AC kept humming away as if trying to put us to sleep. We slept like logs until 5am. Getting up at that time is not appealing to many but for us, it’s something we’re now used to thanks to Ana. We got up and hurriedly got dressed coz we wanted to go to the bund of Parakram Samudra just before sun came up. We really wanted to have the reservoir to ourselves and feel the serenity and calmness in the morning.

Coming out of the hotel in a hurry, we almost bumped into the Doberman of the hotel. Thankfully Mr. Thomas warned us just in time and we escaped without a scratch. Just imagine having to come across a huge and fierce doggy in the dark. We drove fast to the bund while the early morning rays were coming out of their hide out. Having parked our car, we walked along the bund and surprisingly, there were quite a number of people out and jogging reminding us of Colombo walking paths. It was in a way a good scene as people are getting really health conscious.

Water was almost still and a slight breeze brushed our cheeks. Gulls kept hovering above the water looking for an easy prey. The road was practically isolated save for the joggers. The sun started his ascent right in front of the reservoir, I’d have loved if it came up beyond the water surface but it wasn’t to be. Dimbulagala rose high into the sky bringing back memories of us walking all around after getting lost. As usual, the sky turned into yellow, orange and crimson before the sun appeared through clouds and rose above the coconut trees. I’m sure you like to see the pics so let me pamper your minds.

Just after 5.30am

There he comes

Slowly

Look at those beautiful colors

Patterns

Nearly up

There he is

Bright and huge

Coconut leaves in the morning breeze

Parakrama Samudraya

Morning flying

Another

How’s that? Sensational, don’t you agree? We decided to take it easy and drive towards the New Town just to get a feel of the city life. The town folks were still in New Year mode and most of the shops were closed. It was one helluva thing to find a place which was open where we could get some snacks for breakfast. We managed to find two different rolls. Then we drove further towards Kaduruwela keeping the railway line to our left. I just remembered in the recent floods, the whole A11 got flooded and people used the railway line which is somewhat higher than the road, to move about.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Gal Viharaya aka Rock Temple.
2. Nearby Archaeology Remains at Gal Viharaya.
3. Nelum Pokuna.
4. Thivanka Image House.
5. Demala Maha Seya.
6. Shiva Devalaya and Other Remains.
7. Alahana Pirivena.
8. Kiri Vehera.
9. Hevisi Mandapa Pavilion and Crematory Stupas
10. Lankathilaka Image House
11. Baddha Seema Prasadaya.
12. Rankoth Vehera.
13. Monastic Hospital Complex.
14. Gopala Pabbatha Rock Shelter & Inscription.
15. Menik Vehera.
16. Shiva Devalaya.
17. Well & Trade Stalls

Gal Viharaya

A peacock was roaming about but shied away when we tried to stop and take a picture. Around 7.00am, we decided to get back to our main purpose of the day. We arrived at the main archaeological office just after 7am and bought the usual Rs. 50/- ticket. Then ignoring everything else in the vicinity, we drove straight to the Gal Viharaya as we really wanted to have it for ourselves without people bustling around. The morning rays lightened the surrounding and we took in the scenery while driving to the destination. The car park was empty and only a small group was walking towards the site and we followed suit.

This was a sight worth seeing again and again during your lifetime. I’m not surprised people who visit Polonnaruwa primarily visiting the Gal Viharaya ignoring or not knowing other attractions. This is a magical and wonderful creation not just in Sri Lanka but in the whole world. There are three prominent Buddha Statues (Samadhi, Standing and Sleeping postures) carved out of solid granite and placed in such a way as if they’ve been done somewhere else and brought here for the display. There’s a roof covering the statues now and the golden brown sun rays illuminated the statues falling slowly on them as if not wanting to make it too obvious.

We walked along the footpath and there was the tiny lake to our left full to the brim in the recent rains. It looked nice and placid and reflections of the trees could be seen on the surface. We climbed down the steps and arrived at this magical place. The sandy floor in the site had been already swept and I felt a bit ticklish walking barefoot on it. Looking at the serene Buddha Statues is something enchanting. I felt a deep calmness washed over me making my mind and body relaxed. The few devotees chanted “Sadu, Sadu, Sadu” and my hands automatically raised in worship. I felt tears rolling down my cheeks as if all the burdens and troubles inside being filtered out of me. This was something heavenly.

The carvings were that good even the pillow of the sleeping Buddha has been designed to depict the crease when his head is on the pillow. You’d have to look a bit closer to identify this. Well, let me show you what we saw but don’t expect it to be that glamorous coz you gotta be there in person and see it with your own eyes. A famous and well-known myth about the standing statue is that it is of Ananda Thero. However this is not true as the statue is placed on a Lotus Pedestal which is only used for Buddha Statues. Thus the theory this is of Ananda Thero is contradicted and believed after all this is of Lord Buddha. Before we go, let’s see what it says on the signage.

“Contents:

This was built by the King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) which was also known as Uththararamaya in the ancient time. At that time separate image houses were set up for each statue. Such statues are known as meditating statue, standing statue and sleeping statue respectively. The stone inscription including the Sanga (monks) amendments engraved by the King Great Parakramabahu is also found here.”

Just off the car park

Nearby tank

Good morning!

Towards the marvels

Beautifully maintained

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

There it is

First one

Simply amazing

Either side of the statue

At the base

Side view

The center area

Carved stone pillars

So clever and artistic

This is inside the cage

Closer look

Other carvings

Here’s the huge inscription

Closer look

One of the best statutes I’ve ever seen

Closer look

Shadow of the roof on the top part

Feet on the lotus stand

Full picture

Standing and sleeping

No words to express my feelings

Do you see the slight inwards shape of the pillow?

Full length

From the other side

Nearby Archaeological Remains

Afterwards, we roamed around the complex taking in the rest of the remains. There was a refectory (Dhana Shalawa) nearby and another unnamed structure a bit further away. There are signs of a pond closer to the temple as well. After exploring around, we decided to go explore the rest of the sites as the crowd was getting bigger every minute. We were really lucky to have had the place to ourselves without people milling around. We took a walk around the lake and saw the Kiri Vehere looking as white as freshly got milk glistening above the trees. We found a hawk nestling on a tree branch and managed to take a couple of pictures. There was another bird too we found among the leaves which looked really beautiful.

The hawk was really big and unfortunately my knowledge of birds is less than limited. Hopefully Dhana would be able to figure them out. This was one of those key moments in my photography as I hadn’t had a close encounter with a hawk before. Let’s see them before heading to our next destination.

From the path

You can read the sign

Superbly maintained

No idea what this is or any signage to say what it was

Closer look

Going towards the tank

Oh hello!

Look at the reflection

Sunbathing

Just look at the reflection

Here’s the real one

And the copy on the water

Lotus walk

Oh ho

Walking around the tank

There he is

Fiery eyes

Another pic

Ok, off to other things

Lotus Pond

Our next destination was the Lotus pond which is about 1km away from Gal Viharaya. However we didn’t know that despite all the signage there was no mention of the distance to the particular shrines. Leaving the car at Gal Vihara car park, we decided to take a walk hoping to catch more birds on the way. We did see many but weren’t lucky enough to catch them on the camera. The road was mercifully shady as it ran through the forest patch. Morning rays filtered through the tree branches and leaves.

We met one of the archeological officers coming to work from a nearby village. He spotted a group of deer inside the jungle sunbathing but hearing our footsteps, they ran into the jungle. The walk looked endless when we saw the turn off to Demala Maha Seya but decided to see it on the way back and carried on until we arrived at the Lotus Pond. This created a big sensation because the Lotus Pond Auditorium in Colombo was designed after it otherwise only a few interested parties knew of this and how wonderful it really is.

We saw a couple of Black-Headed Orioles (Kaha Kurulla for the laymen) as we turned towards the pond. In terms of the size, if you’re expecting to see a mammoth pond, you’ll be disappointed coz we’re used to seeing these gigantic creations in Polonnaruwa. This was somewhat smaller and there was no one around making it easier for us to take pictures at will. So let’s go see how it looks. Further away from it lie remains of what they call a circular shrine as well.

“Contents:

The shape of the pond, built in the form of a full blown lotus flower gives it the name, Lotus Pond. This falls within the premises of the Jethavanarama (Monastery) built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD), and according to Mahavamsa eight such ponds have been built. Ruins of several such ponds have also been discovered during explorations within the limits of this monastery.”

Three attractions on this road

Love the bright colors

Lonely road

Black-headed oriole

Cleaning session

There it is

Click image to enlarge

Oh wow

Look at those precision carvings

Speechless

All around

The circular shrine between Lotus Pond and Thivanka Image House

Not much excavated

Thivanka Image House

Walking further way we saw a huge building bordered with a skeleton metal work showing that it was under restoration. This was the world famous Thivanka Image House. I recalled going through many times during my school days remembering who built which. Thivanka Image House was a big sensation in our history lessons. Unfortunately, I guess the current school syllabus doesn’t have history as a primary subject as far as I know. A country without a history is like a curry without salt for me.

We’ve so much of history but very little attention is paid to that and learn from them. Once again, we had the place to ourselves because all the people were busy at Gal Viharaya and probably go away afterwards without exploring any further. This is very much similar to the Thuparama Image House at Dalada Maluwa (check my Polonnaruwa Chapter 1) and to be seen Lankathilaka Image House. The main complex has housed a huge Buddha Statue while there were other statues on either side. There was a path created through the thick walls that goes in a semi-square around the image house but inside. This was used by monks to meditate while walking along it. We were lucky to have been shown the inside of this. Of course, Thivanka Image House has the most intact walkway and we walked through the dark tunnel like confined pathway which now owned by the bats.

The archaeology officer on site was very friendly and gave us a lot of information. There were faint signs of some beautiful paintings similar to Sigiriya Frescoes. Unfortunately, most of them are now gone leaving only a very few of them. State Engineering Cooperation has undertaken the restoration work and now in progress. There were many artistic creations on the outer walls as well but taking pictures through that skeleton barrier was not easy. I will definitely go there once it’s done, hopefully within a year or so.

There are a few giant squirrels that visit the shrine and one came while we were there. The fella looked very tame but we decided to leave it be. Well, let’s go see how this looks like, shall we?

Metal covering for renovation

Can’t get a better pic of the outside

All around it’s covered

Guard stone

The other

Steps

Look at that precision artwork

Parts of statues remain

Interior

Can you see the giant statue inside

The roof

Paintings are fading away

Some more

Few of the good ones

Another

Must’ve looked beautiful

Some more

Endless

There you go

The last in my collection

Only a partial one

The lotus seat has been restored

You can see the restored walls

The roof also renovated

The low entrance to the meditating path

Inside of it, very narrow

The roof

A window

Back out of it, this is the steps to the second floor

Outside

Time to go

But not before without a chat with him

Demala Maha Seya

Leaving the Thivanka Image House wasn’t easy coz I simply wanted to spend more time there but we had to get back to Colombo the same day so left while a group of visitors arrived on site. Retracing our steps, we passed the Lotus Pond before entering into the path to the Demala Maha Seya. It got its name due to the way this was built. King Parakramabahu had brought many Tamil Prisoners after invading South India and had used them to build this huge Stupa giving it the name.

It’s being restored under the funds of UNICEF. They’ve allocated 10 Crore (100 million rupees) for the project. The supervisor on site, Mr. Sampath revealed that in the 80s, there had been a similar attempt to unearth the whole stupa and restore it but apparently the officials hadn’t done it the proper way. According to him, so far they’ve uncovered 1/12^th of the whole stupa. I simply couldn’t believe my eyes as there was a huge area had been unearthed but it was less than 10%.

Hopefully they’ll do the finishing within my lifetime. He showed us the way to the top of the Stupa where a smaller one could be seen. From the top, we could see the tops of Rankoth Vehera, Kiri Vehera and Lankathilaka Image house above the lush greenery against a cotton wool and royal blue sky. It was as if we were in a different world. We could see the Dimbulagala in the distance with its prominent Akasa Chaithya but the glaring sun made it almost impossible to zoom in for a picture.

On our way back, the workers offered us plain tea served in coconut shell cups. This was an offer we didn’t wanna turn down as we were very thirsty having left our water bottle in the car. After bidding farewell to them, we headed back towards the Gal Vihara Car Park but not before encountering some more remains. I know you’re now itching to see the pictures but we must check what we can learn from the facts given at the plaque.

“Contents:

This is called Demala Maha Seya because it was built by Tamil prisoners-of-war from King Parakramabahu’s (1153-1186 AD) South Indian campaigns. The stupa was built enveloping an existing hillock and is about 600 meters in circumference at its base. The summit of the stupa dome is levelled and contains a small stupa at the center. It is not clear whether this was left undone because of the size of the project or whether it was an attempt to build a stupa of the Kota Vehera type.”

Washed out in the rain

Cut to explore the interior

At work

Click image to enlarge

Where men at work

One end of the basement

The path to go to the top

Look at the view

Bricks are clearly visible

80-foot deep pit to inspect the interior

Can you see that?

From left, Rankoth Vehera, Lankathilaka Image House and Kiri Vehera

Rankoth Vehera

Kiri Vehera and Lankathilakaya

On the top, see how big the area is

Those pits are for inspecting the core

A ladder

The small stupa on top

Closer

There it is

I simply love this

Plenty of space on top

One of the worker’s

Ok, time to go

Other Archaeological Remains including a Shiva Devalaya

We walked back towards the main road after a reviving tea offered by the workers. The sun was up and we were beginning to regret not taking the car but had no choice. All along the road we noticed a few places where there were signs of plenty of garbage left behind. Apparently these were the places where vendors would do those temporary shops when there are many tourists. Unfortunately, none, either the Urban Council or those vendors, had the sense, the courtesy or the obligation to clear the place after the shops are closed.

We arrived finally on the main road and saw another complex of archaeological remains that stretched right up to the Alahana Pirivena. This could very well have been a part of it as well but I’ll show you some pictures before going into the Alahana Pirivena main complex. See what do you think about them?

This is right before turning to the Lotus Pond, Demala Maha Seya and Thivanka Image House

Shiva Devalaya

Here are some more pics

Rest of the area

Plenty of them

Endless

Alahana Pirivena must stretch as far as this

Ok, let’s go now

Alahana Pirivena

We then walked towards the car park and quenched our thirst with long pulls from the water bottles before turning right to the Alahana Pirivena through which you have to get to the absolutely breath-taking and grandeur Kiri Vehera. Now talking about Alahana Pirivena, there had been 5000 monks resided in the monastery and guess what, every one of them had their own chamber (“Kuti” in Sinhala). So this gigantic monastery had 5000 individual chambers in the premises along with Refectories, Preaching Halls, Ponds & Wells and many other buildings.

The king was responsible for the well-being of the monks and it must’ve been a great deed to the Buddha Sashana. As usual, I’m gonna give you the contents of the archaeology sign located at the premises. Let’s see what it says:

“Contents:

 Having an extent of 35 hectares, this is the largest monastery in Polonnaruwa extending from here up to Rankoth Vehera. Established by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.), the name suggests that the site had been a former cremation ground which has been confirmed by archaeological excavations carried out here in several places. It is believed that the small stupas here were built on the cremation sites of prelates or of the Royalty. The monastery has a terraced layout of Kiri Vehera, Lankathilaka Image House, Baddhasima Prasada and the small stupas (some of them are crematory stupas) and located on two upper terraces while the monastic hospital, ponds and hundreds of resident monks’ cellars are located on the lower terraces.”

So, what are we waiting for? Yeah, of course the pictures, ain’t it? Right, here they are but don’t spend too much time coz we’ve plenty to cover today and need to leave for Colombo as well.

Click image to enlarge

Kiri Vehera

Another pic

The path, but our focus was to the right of the path for Alahana Pirivena

These are mainly Monks’ Cells

A sight I couldn’t resist

There

Many more like these

One of the ponds

See them stretch to the far

Another angle of the pond

There must be millions of stone pillars in this complex alone

The drainage system

Perfect square, completely made of stone

Kiri Vehera

One of the crematory stupas

Closer look

Another

5000 cells for the 5000 monks

The wall where the terraced layout is in place, Kiri Vehera is in that level

Another drain

Right, let’s call it off and go to Kiri Vehera

Kiri Vehera

Impressive, isn’t it? Alahana Pirivena has so many remains of chambers and halls that I could’ve taken more than a couple of thousand pictures. Now you know what it is, we’ll move into the other places but you haven’t seen the last of Alahana Pirivena coz after Rankoth Vehera, we’d come back into it from the other end. Kiri Vehera is located right next to the Alahana Pirivena but on an elevated area. So are Lankathilaka Image House and Baddha Seema Prasada.

Kiri Vehera is as the name suggests glistens with pristine white after its paint work. Well, as soon as you heard the name Kiri Vehera, it’s the Kataragama Kiri Vehera that comes into your mind, doesn’t it? Well, this is also Kiri Vehera and more than 900 years old. This is a sight worth seeing again and again if you can manage. The beautiful white Stupa rising into the royal blue sky full of even whiter clouds is something out of a dream. We didn’t feel the ferocity of the heat as there was a cool breeze flowing across us as if to feel us welcome.

I know now you’re very impatient to see the pictures and here they are without further delay. Take a look and tell me what you feel. Do you feel the same heavenly feeling as I did? Probably not coz seeing the pictures are not as half good as seeing them for real but you’ll have to be content with that for the time being if you haven’t been there already.

Oh before all that, what Kiri Vehera is? Here’s what the archaeology department has to say. I’m also putting the translation of the Kiri Vehera Inscription which is kept to the side of the stupa.

“Contents:

Nothing is known about the ancient name or the stupa popularly known as Kiri Vehera. But it is speculated that this is the work of Queen Subhadra, a consort of King Parakrambahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.) The present name probably derives from the fact that its lime plaster of the dome is better preserved than of most other stupas in Polonnaruwa.”

“Kiri Vehera Slab Inscription:

The inscription reveals victories of King Nissankamalla and General Lak Vijayagu Senevi in the wars with the countries such as Pandaya, Cola, Kalinga and Cambodia. As a memento of these victories the Hindu Temple, Nishshankeshwara was built in Rameshwaram. On his return after the victories a pavilion with this inscription was built for worshipping Lord Buddha’s relics.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Partially broken Moonstone

Just had to wait for nearly quarter of an hour for this pic

Just don’t know how long I could’ve waited like this

What do you think?

And this?

I could’ve taken hundreds of pics

There you go

Small image houses in front of the stupa

Here’s the inscription

Very long but broken in places

A different setting

Hevisi Mandapa Pavilion and Crematory Stupas

Our next stop was the Hevisi Mandapa in front of the Lankathilaka Image House which looked very much similar to the Nissankalatha Mandapa but without those beautifully carved and shaped pillars. Instead this too had some wonderfully crafted pillars with plenty of artwork. It was not mentioned what it really was but one of the guides said it really was a “Hevisi Mandapa” where the drummers played their drums for religious rituals like they do in Dalada Maligawa and all the Buddhist Temples. There were few other Crematory Stupas as well.

They were in different sizes and then we found the larger the stupa was, the higher the level of spiritual status of the monk was. For example, if a monk had obtained Arhath Level of Status, his remains would’ve been kept in a bigger stupa while someone with Anagami Level would be in a smaller one. It was really interesting and we walked around taking hundreds of pictures. We could see the almighty Lankathilaka Image House close by but before you go anywhere near that, take a look at these pictures. And then we’ll go see the marvelous Lankathilaka Image House. I’m gonna tell you how the name Lankathilaka came about so be ready.

Crematory stupa

Look at this drain

Small one

Medium sized

Another tiny one, see the Lankathilaka Image House in the background?

Pavilion where they played drums

Front view

So many pillars

Carvings too

You can see the tip of Kiri Vehera

There you are

Closer look of the lotus

More beyond where we stood

One of my favourites. Main image of the Lankathilaka can be seen through the pavilion

Some more artwork

One of the many

Now to the biggest Image House

Lankathilaka Image House

Now you’ve seen what the rest of the ruins are like including many more crematory stupas, let’s go see the third and probably the biggest of all image houses in Polonnaruwa. You remember, we saw Thuparama Image House yesterday and Thivanka Image House this morning both of them were simply amazing. Now it was time to see the Lankathilaka Image House which compared to the other two, somewhat more damaged. However the tall walls on the image house could be seen from the top of Demala Maha Seya along with Kiri Vehera and Rankoth Vehera.

There were a few tourists walking about so we stayed for them to go to other places before visiting it as I wanted to have the place for myself as long as possible. You’d know why if you ever go to one of these archaeological places and find that there’s only you. You could in your own imagination go back in time and picture how it might have looked in the pinnacle of its time. Unfortunately, the stream of never ending visitors kept making it harder for me.

Now talking about the image house itself, one of the guides said that this is called Lankathilaka because it was like a gem for the whole country. Now let’s see what the archaeology department has to say about it all.

“Contents:

This is the vaulted type (gedige) image house built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.) and is the largest image house built in ancient Sri Lanka. The two pylons at the entrance and the giant standing Buddha image inside signify its scale. There is evidence that the interior and exterior walls had been adorned with paintings. The stucco relief sculpture on the exterior walls show South Indian influence. Obvious indications are there that this image house had been renovated during the Dambadeniya period (13^th century A.D.) the building with stone pillars in front of the image house may have been a pavilion for Hevisi Drummers.”

Well, before you go into the pictures, there’s another inscription found here which is called Lankathilaka Guard Stone Inscription. Let’s see what it says:

“Lankathilaka Guard Stone Inscription:

Reign: Vijayabahu IV (1270-1272 A.D.)

Period: 13^th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Pali

Contents:

Inscription mentions that King Vijayabahu IV renovated the Lankathilaka Vihara, hundred years after it was built by the great King Parakramabahu”

Ok, here we go.

Gigantic, isn’t it?

Grand

Korawakgala

Left one

And the right

Another view

Amazingly beautiful

Do you see the carvings? They are found like this only here

Broken statue, you saw something similar at Thivanka Image House

Entering

To the left wall

Like Thivanka Image House, partially broken

Full frame

Right wall

The narrow steps to the top

The tiny meditating pathway

Inside, hundreds of bats screamed at me when I took this picture

Other entrance

Through one of the windows

Looking back at the entrance

One of the side entrances

Some of the restoration work is going on

Next in line

Baddha Seema Prasada

Ok, it really is something, isn’t it? Now, let’s go and see Baddha Seema Prasada a bit further from Lankathilaka itself. Baddha Seema Prasada is a Chapter House where they rehearsed the code of discipline. The place is in an area further elevated above the rest of the structures and around it is the ruins of magnanimous Alahana Pirivena. We saw a couple of more crematory stupa and two ponds where they probably bathed. It looked amazing and we could see both Kiri Vehera and Rankoth Vehera either side of us.

Let’s see what this really is.

“Contents:

This is the Uposathagara (Chapter House) of the monks of the Alahana Pirivena where they rehearsed the code of discipline (especially the Pati Mokka). The pillars and brick walls suggest that there had been a storied building. This is the largest Uposathagaras in the island and according to Mahavamsa was twelve storied. The central platform within the building was to locate the relic casket.”

All are crematory stupas

Getting to the top of the terraced layout

Some more stupas

We took a walk

Another pond

Very narrow steps, probably one could’ve gone down or up at a time, don’t know why?

Further below

Another part of Alahana Pirivena

Oh, another pond

Just look at that

Waiting for a prey

Another of my favorites

Ok, now let’s go and see the Baddha Seema Prasadaya

Paths

Drain from an upper level

Directed to the lower level

Windows of the upper floor of Lankathilaka

There’s our destination

Never ending walk

You can go around

Click image to enlarge

The top layer of the area is for Baddha Seema Prasadaya

Closer look

Side walls

Instructions to the visitors

There were many of these (note the white patch towards the middle of this pillar)

It is this, gotta be very careful

Walked all around before entering

Ready to go

Moonstone is intact

Here interior

Could’ve been the center stage but used for what?

Ruins all around

Windows

So many pillars

There Rankoth Vehera

Over the trees

Nice blue sky

The wall to the outside

From the back

Now, the big stupa

Rankoth Vehera

Our next stop was Rankoth Vehera which we could’ve reached walking through the many thousands of ruins in Alahana Pirivena coz it covers so much ground and spreads from Kiri Vehera towards Rankoth Vehera. However, we decided to come back to the Gal Viharaya Car Park and take the car. It’s about 500m drive to the Rankoth Vehera and there’s a spacious car park as well. The roads are well maintained and looked after. We reached the not-so-crowded car park and got down to this majestic dark brown stupa looking as large as anything.

The towering stupa was really a sight to see and we hurried towards it as there were only a few people around. It was so hard to take pictures with the bustling crowds moving about. We got to the footpath that led to it and started clicking away. The sight was something incredible and I simply wanted just to sit and watch. However, the time was against us and I only wish we had another day, at least, to explore more closely. Right folks, let’s go see what the archaeological background this wonderful creation has before moving onto the pictures. There’s an inscription like in any other places.

“Rankoth Dageba Pillar Inscription:

Reign: Nissankamalla (1187-1196 A.D.)

Period: 12^th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala

Contents:

This inscription records that the king inspected the main cities and villages of the country and rendered all beings to live without fear. The methods for economic progress and the victories gained from the Cola and the Pandaya wars are mentioned. This inscription is inscribed on the pavilion from which his majesty worshipped the relics in the Ruwanweli or the Rankoth Dageba.”

Did you notice that Rankoth Vehera is also known as Ruwanweli Vehera? Well, it’s getting really interesting, isn’t it? Until I read this, I didn’t know anything about it. That’s why you need to be very thorough when visiting archaeological sites such as this coz there are many things, seemingly trivial, we miss out due to various reasons. I really must go again and see them leisurely, probably leaving my camera behind.

There’s another inscription and let’s read that as well before moving on.

“Rankoth Dageba Gal Asana (Stone Seat) Inscription:

Reign: Nissankamalla (1187-1196 A.D.)

Period: 12^th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala

Contents:

This inscription includes records of donations and the war victories of the king. It further mentions the stone seat on which this is inscribed was the seat from which king observed the construction of the Ranweli Dageba or the Rankoth Vehera at Polonnaruwa.”

Oops

Amazing

The Kotha of Rankoth Vehera

A structure before the stupa

Here it is

Stupa is about 50m from here

Click image to enlarge

The inscription

Closer look, can you see the precision area like a single rule book

Good view

Through the trees

Looks like a huge tank

Towards the upper part

Full frame with image houses

So many of them

There in front

Small moonstone

Buddha Statue

Just look at this

Click image to enlarge

This is where the pillar inscription is

Can you see the writing?

Some more

Structures beyond the stupa

Another image house

Stony doorframe

Inside with flash

Another angle

Stone window

Closer view

Ok, let’s move on

Monastic Hospital Complex

It really was a great sight to walk around this majestic creation. We then started walking towards the Alahana Pirivena from the other end. If you remember my first trip to Ritigala Archaeological Site, I showed you a hospital complex which must’ve been very modern at the time. So inside the Alahana Pirivena, we came across another hospital which was used by the monks in the monastery. It further proves this monastery was self-sufficient in every possible manner and the kings provided generously for the well-being of Maha Sangha and Buddha Sashana.

The place seemed to have had many different areas for the monks probably depending on their condition and we even saw the remains of a herbal tub made of stone where the patients were submerged in herbals in the pond. Let’s see what the history says of this place.

“Contents:

Archaeological excavations here have confirmed that this is an ancient hospital. One room has still a stone cut medicine trough (Beheth Oruwa) which has been used for treating patients by immersing in herbal oil. Several surgical and medical equipment used at the time have been found during excavations at the site. This 12^th century hospital more or less follows the 8^th century Mihintale prototype.”

Click image to enlarge

Here it is

Let’s go in

Pretty big

Here’s the stone trough

Toilet

Probably a drainage pit

Side view

Moving on

Gopala Pabbatha Rock Shelter & Inscription.

Our next stop was the Gopala Pabbatha Rock Shelter which is about 50m opposite the hospital inside the Alahana Pirivena. Nowadays, it’s a slightly raised rock with a huge Nuga tree grown on the top. There was no sign explaining what this place really was but they’d put the meaning of the inscription. Let’s first see what it says and then probably the pictures will help you make out what it really is. However, as the inscription had been done in either 1^st or 2^nd century, it looks as if there had been people well before the pinnacle of Polonnaruwa era which was the 12^th century during King Parakramabahu the Great and Nissankamalla.

In addition to this, we walked a bit around the Alahana Pirivena further examining the ruins and you’ll also see more pictures after the Gopala Pabbatha.

“Gopala Pabbatha Rock Inscription:

Period: 1-2 Century A.D.

Script: Later Brahmi

Language: Old Sinhala

Contents:

A donation to the Chulagala Viharaya by Chula Ahalya, son of Ayatiya Buta is mentioned in the inscription.”

It’s over there

Can you see?

Like a door

Click image to enlarge

Mostly rubbed off

Closer

Going to the top

See the Nuga invasion

Huge one

This is through that door

Lower side

There you are

Many cells of Alahana Pirivena

Some more

Here	The path from Baddha Seema Prasada to the Rankoth Vehera

Baddha Seema Prasada is over this

Another drain

I simply couldn’t get enough of this

Portrait

Menik Vehera

Now the time is getting past 1pm and the sun is ever so unforgiving. We must’ve drunk more than 14 liters of water from yesterday yet still feel mighty thirsty. So we topped ourselves more with water and decided to go for the last prominent attraction for the day. However, despite our meticulous planning and walking, we still missed quite a few places of interest which means, will need another day or two at this grandeur place.

We decided to leave the car and started walking towards the Menik Vehera about 200m away which felt like 2km in the end. You have to walk backwards as in towards the inner Citadel or where the Dalada Maluwa is to visit the Menik Vehera. It’ll be there just outside the Inner Citadel. This is not a tall stupa like Kiri Vehera and Rankoth Vehera thus not that much visible from the main road. Only a few people visit this place as a result, especially the foreigners who carry a map of the ancient kingdom.

“Contents:

Popularly known as Menki Vehera, the history of the monastery is not known. But according to the architectural features, it could date back to the 8-9 centuries A.D. This monastery has a terraced layout and consists of a stupa, a bodhigira, refectory, monks’ dispensary and cells. Built on a high terrace surrounded by a high wall, the stupa here is of a rare type.”

The path

Have to climb up

Monk’s cell

Lavatory

Full length

Squatting pan

There it is

Closer view

Surrounding image houses

From the front

Damaged a lot

Another

Muragal

That’s the Bodhigara

There you can see the sign

Surrounding cells

Ok, go see what this is

Click image to enlarge

Here we go

Left

Right

A jumbo, haven’t seen that before

Lion faced tablets etched into the wall

Through the granite doorframe

Apparently there had been a structure here as well

Like Kota Vehera, they’ve cut it open

Other ruins around

See the wall covering the stupa?

Time to go

Trade Stalls, Well and Shiva Devalaya

Ok, here’s the last part of our journey where we walked back to the car park from the Menik Vehera. There were many ancient remains of Trade Stalls either side of the road which must’ve been quite a sight in the old days. I wonder what they might have sold and how the royalty and the others went shopping. In addition to the trade stalls, there were a couple of wells littered with plastic bottles and garbage by our so-called visitors and another small Shiva Devalaya. Well, you must be tired after checking so many things (well over 200 word pages) so will show you the pictures without further delay.

Well paved road

Walls bordering the road

Many of these along the road

Shiva Devalaya

There you go

Shiva Lingam

One of the wells

Another

Rains had made a pool

There are the trade stalls

Some more

Either side of the road

The last one before we left

Couldn’t have been a better picture

Ok, what do you think? Don’t tell me it took you one week to finish the report. To be honest, I’ve never felt this tired before after writing a report, not even after the Lakegala. However, I hope someone, especially the kids, will learn something out of it and I’ve done enough to satisfy their curious little minds and tempted their hearts to go see these wonderful creations.

We must teach our younger generation the value of these things so that they’ll safeguard them for the years to come. Tell them what a proud nation we’d been in the past when the rest of the world was nothing but crawling along the ocean floor. I hope I’ve achieved my target in the two chapters and you and your kids learnt something worthwhile.

Well, time for me to say bye for now and will see you soon with a brand new fairy tale. This is Sri signing off for now.

Take care!

Sri…