Glory of the Royal Cities – Dambadeniya & Yapahuwa

The historical legend of Sri Lanka starts from Vijaya, who was the eldest son of King Sinhabahu and queen Sinhasivali of Lata deshaya of India (Identified as present Rarh region of West Bengal) who landed at Thambapanni in 543BC with 700 followers. He became the ruler of the country starting the genealogy of kings of Sri Lanka. His administration was from Thambapanni, the area where he landed. His successors, King Upatissa, Panduwasadewa, Abhaya and Tissa ruled from Upatissagama and Anuradhagama which were not yet capital cities but rural colonies. Unlike the other two, Anuradhagama stabilized as the administrative centre. It existed as a colony for 1 ½ centuries up to the reign of King Pandukabhaya who started the development of Anuradhagama and transformed it to the royal city, Anuradhapura.

Kingdom of Anuradhapura

King Pandukabhaya started ruling the country from the administrative capital, Anuradhapura which was the first kingdom of Sri Lanka from 377BC. City was further developed by the subsequent kings and reached the heights of its glory. Amidst occasional south Indian attacks, Anuradhapura remained as the capital for 14 centuries until 10^th Century BC. During the reign of the King Mihindu V who was a weak administrator, Anuradhapura was severely attacked by Chola invaders in 1017.  As south Indian invaders captured Anuradhapura and started ruling from there, there was no option other than moving the capital to elsewhere. Cholas ruled Anuradhapura till 1070 and the kingdom was abandoned thereafter as the Polonnaruwa emerged as the second Kingdom of Sri Lanka in 1056 with the enthronement of king Vijayabahu I.

Kingdom of Polonnaruwa

From the 1^st century, there are evidences of the existence of Polonnaruwa as a colony. During Anuradhapura era, several development works had been done by the kings. City was developed at a strategic position close to the border of Pihiti Rata and Ruhunu Rata which was demarcated by river Mahaweli. During foreign invasions to Rajarata, Sinhalese kings used take strategic moves to Ruhuna for protection and then return with troops. Therefore Polonnaruwa located close to the border was important as a backup station. It is believed that Polonnaruwa is the place where King Dutugemunu’s troops camped for the war against King Elara.

Polonnaruwa remained as the royal capital for 180 years from 1056 to 1236. However, after the reign of king Nissankamalla in 1196, kingdom was changed hands 11 times between kings within 16 years. Some kings could not hold on even for a single year. Thus, the kingdom was politically unstable and was highly vulnerable. Under this circumstance, fall of this kingdom started in 1212 with the invasion of Parakrama Pandu and Kalimga Magha. Parakrama Pandu who was a Pandyan King ruled from Polonnaruwa till 1215 and then the invasion of Kalinga Magha who expelled Parakrama Pandu and ruled from 1215 to 1236 recorded the collapse of the second kingdom. During the attack of Magha, destruction of sacred sites in Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, theft, torture and harassments to civilians happened in massive scale. Even Thuparamaya and most sacred Ruwanweli Seya were raided by him. His priorities were to steal the wealth of the country and people and to overturn the traditions and culture of the community. As a result, there was a mass migration of civilians to south west towards the mountainous interior of the country.

Kingdom of Dambadeniya

Since the impact of the invasions occurred was so severe, situation became more and more vulnerable. Kingdoms of the north central region, Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa which stood for over 15 centuries disappeared, never to return. Sinhalese rulers shifted their seat of governance towards south west regions of the island.

Amidst the unsettled situation, a successor of the royal blood line Vanni Vijayabahu (A descendant of King Sirisangabo) who moved to Dambadeniya, established the kingdom coming to the throne as King Vijayabahu III. There were some regional rulers too in the other parts of the country but Dambadeniya was prominent as the capital which sheltered the sacred tooth relic. At the time of his enthronement, as the country had been under the invaders for a considerable period, Buddhism was at a deteriorating phase due to several threats and absence of royal patronage. Maha Sangha  had been fled in various directions due to the hostile activities of Kalinga Magha. Therefore, key focus of King Vijayabahu III was to unite Maha Sangha and reinstate Buddhism to its former glory.

Meanwhile, Indian invaders ruling from Polonnaruwa made several efforts to capture the tooth relic because the ruler who is having the sacred tooth relic with him was accepted as the real king. Therefore, king Wijayabahu III took actions to hide the tooth relic in Beligala RMV located in the village where he was born. Beligala RMV sheltered the tooth relic for two years.

After his short period of reign from 1232 to 1236 AD, his sun succeeded to the throne as King Parakramabahu II recording the golden age of Dambadeniya from 1236 to 1270. He defeated Kalinga Magha who was ruling Polonnaruwa in 1236 was able to attch Rajarata back to Sinhalese kingdom.  He took actions to send his elder son Vijayabahu to recover the ancient sites of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa including Thuparamaya and Ruwanweli seya. King Parakramabahu II was a great poet and has the reputation as a king who had rendered a remarkable service to Sinhalese literature and Buddhism. He was called Panditha Parakramabahu (Held the title of honor Kalikala Sahithya Sarvagngna Panditha) in recognition of the immense service done in favour of sinhalese literature. Kavsilumina which is a great piece of literature and Visuddi Marga Sannasa are among his writings.

He constructed a three storied Dalada Maligawa in Dambadeniya. It can be seen today in the premises of Wijayasundararamaya as a two storied building after conservation by the Department of Archaeology.

Next in the royal line was King Vijayabahu IV who was the elder son of king Parakramabahu II. He was called Bosath Vijayabahu owing to his modest behavior and religious activities.  His reign from Dambadeniya was just 02 years from 1270 to 1272 since he was assassinated by one of his ministers called Miththa. Then his brother (Younger son of King Parakramabahu II) succeeded to the throne as King Buwanekabahu I in 1272 AD and ruled the country till 1284. During this period, he moved to Yapahuwa due to security threats, shifting the capital city marking the end of Dambadeniya kingdom.

Although the move happened during the reign of King Buwanekabahu I (1272-1284), there is no evidence of the exact time of the move. So the whole period of King Buwanekabahu I is considered under both Dambadeniya and Yapahuwa periods. Hence there is an overlapping.

Genealogy of Kings of Dambadeniya

King Vijayabahu III             1232-1236               04 Years

King Parakramabahu II        1236-1270               34 Years

King Vijayabahu IV             1270-1272               02 Years

King Buwanekabahu I          1272-1284               12 Years

(Ruled from both Dambadeniya and Yapahuwa. Moved to Yapahuwa)

Kingdom of Yapahuwa

During the whole period where Dambadeniya stood as the capital (1232 – 1284), Indian invaders Kalinga Magha (1215 – 1236) and Arya Chakrawarthi (1236-1284) were ruling from Polonnaruwa and Jaffna respectively. Since an attack from the Indian invaders was possible any time, Yapahuwa was used as a watch tower for early identification of the enemies. A military chief named Subha had been stationed on the top of Yapahuwa rock for this purpose. Owing to that Yapahuwa was alternatively called Subha Pabbatha. King Buwanekabahu I who considered Dambadeniya as insecure, used this territory to build his palace and military stronghold against South Indian invaders. Yapahuwa served as the capital of Sri Lanka from 13^th Century.

According to the sources of history, Yapahuwa had been the capital only for a short period but it is nothing short of a glorious royal city. King Buwanekabahu I build his capital city around the majestic Yapahuwa rock rising up to a height of 90m. At the southern base of the rock there is a fortification consisting of inner and outer ramparts with two moats adjoining. Dalada Maligawa and Kings palace complex located in the inner city. Unlike Sigiriya rock fortress, and Dambadeniya, the palace complex is located at the base of the rock and Dalada Maligawa had been built on an elevated platform adjacent to the rock. King Buwanekabahu I brought the sacred Tooth Relic with him from Dambadeniya and placed in this new Dalada Maligawa. The ornamental stairway to reach Dalada Maligawa and its Wahalkada made up of stone remains as the kingdom’s biggest showpiece.

The largest collection of Chinese coins was found in Yapahuwa providing evidence of strong trading relationships with China, specially during the reign of king Buwanekabahu I. Influence of Chinese architecture could be clearly observed in the stone carvings and sculptures associated with the ornamental stairway. The sculpture widely known as “Yapahuwa Lion” is actually considered as a Dragon.

Following the death of King Buwanekabahu I, in 1284 Pandyans once again, attacked Yapahuwa and succeeded in capturing the Tooth Relic and took it to South India.

After King Buwanekabahu I, his son succeeded to the throne as King Parakramabahu III (1284-1293) who was the son of Vijayabahu IV. He was able to bring the Tooth Relic back via establishing diplomatic relationships with the Pandyan kingdom. He was succeeded by King Buwanekabahu II (1293-1302) who was the son of King Buwanekabahu I. He subsequently abandoned Yapahuwa and moved to Kurunegala and build his kingdom.

Genealogy of Kings of Yapahuwa

King Buwanekabahu I          1272-1284               12 Years

King Parakramabhu III        1284-1293               09 Years

(Ruled from Polonnaruwa too)

King Buwanekabahu II         1293-1302               09 Years

(Ruled from both Yapahuwa and Kurunegala. Moved to Kurunegala)

 The journey to 13^th century

Having such a glorious history hidden behind those wonderful creations, it was not easy for me to keep my eyes closed for too long. So my very next “hard earned” holiday after the rail hike with Sri, was devoted without any hesitation for the exploration of Dambadeniya and Yapahuwa.

While Sri Lanka was getting ready for May Day celebrations, we were on the road early in the morning around 3.30 heading towards Yapahuwa. We planned to visit Yapahuwa early in the morning and then come back towards Dambadeniya which is closer to Colombo as it is easy in our return journey.

Road via Narammala is in superb condition and is a treat to drive. As morning rays could be seen after getting close to Mahawa, we looked for a good place to have Breakfast. But most of the restaurants were closed and we could not find a proper place. So, leaving it behind we decided to visit Yapahuwa.

Once we enter from the main gate towards the archaeological site, road runs through the outer rampart and the car park (For light vehicles only) is located in the outer city. Then we have to walk through the gate of the inner rampart to see the ruins of the inner city where Kings palace complex, ornamental stairway and Dalada maligawa are located. The temple (Yapahuwa RMV) which is built for religious activities of ordinary people is also located in the outer city for their easy access as otherwise it will create problems for them  to enter in to the high secured inner city where Kings palace is located.

Proceeding further without entering from the main gate will lead to the Archaeological museum and the main car park located to the right. It is better to visit the museum which is the information centre of the site first and then visit Archaeological site to make the observations more meaningful.

Since we were there early in the morning we could avoid the crowds, freely enjoy the wonderful creations and climb the rock before the sun hits hard.

Click to enlarge

1. Outer moat and rampart
2. Inner moat and rampart
3. Access roads
4. Ruins of the inner city
5. Ornamental stairway
6. Temple of the Tooth Relic
7. Ruins on the rock
8. Bangalapitiya ruins

Access road towards right starts at the main gate. Light vehicles can enter via the western gate of the outer rampart and proceed towards the Yapahuwa RMV. Access road towards left is where main car park and museum is located.

Outer mort and rampart with the western entrance

Another view

Stairs

View of the outer city from the entrance

Inner rampart and its western entrance

Inner rampart connecting to the rock close to western entrance

Inner rampart – view from the inside

Inner rampart with its moat

Foundation of the King’s palace

The construction

Balustrades at the entrance to the palace

Called Raja sabhawa, but not confirmed

Street where Dalada Perahera was used to progress. Stages on either side are for the King, ministers and other elite groups who watch the pageant.

Closer look

First and second stairways to Dalada Maligawa

Second stairway. Raining consists of boxes reducing size towards the top

Angle is 70 degrees and stairs are narrow. In case of an attack, it is not easy for enemies to advance along this stairway. In addition, two people stationed at the top of the stairway would be sufficient to prevent enemies from proceeding towards Dalada Maligawa.

Third stairway and wahalkada, the masterpiece.

Majestic

With the rock

Stone wahalkada.

Master craftsmanship

Elegant door frame

Stone carvings of wahalkada

The window, sewmeduru kauluwa

Top of the window frame

Wahalkada from the back

View from sewmeduru kauluwa. There had been stone grills fixed to the two windows either side. One is available in Yapahuwa museum and the other is kept in the National museum, Colombo.

The stone grill available at Yapahuwa museum. This grill is carved in a way that, if you look at this from the front or from the back, it looks same. Also, circled carved in this has a meaning. It tells that people learn to follow dhamma and make their lives successful and then with time they tend to ignore dhamma and make their lives miserable.

Entrance to Dalada Maligawa

Only foundation is existing

A stone pillar decorated by carvings

sculptures

Looking glorious

Sense of pride

The amazing Yapahuwa Lion (Dragon)

Balustrade stone (Korawak Gala) with Gajasingha sculpture

Another carving

Another

Wamanas(Dwarfs)

Musicians

More of them

Amazing sculptures

Final look

How it was, before restoration (Courtesy-Dept of archaeology)

Towards top of the rock

Views on the way

A cave

Closer to the top

The Stupa

Pond and the Stupa on top

Scenery

Path to heaven?

Its green

View of waduwa ketu gala

What a view

Dead tree art

Holes used to set up pillars of Subha’s mansion

Closer look

The rock

The pond

Paddy art

Stairways and Wahalkada seen from the top

Yapahuwa RMV

Image house

Stone roof with paintings

Buddha image

Paintings

Bodhigara located close to temple

The entrance

On top of the door frame

Where Bo tree had been

Rocks and bricks

Bangalapitiya stupa – towards right by the road about 200m before main gate (If travelling towards Yapahuwa)

Having so much to see, It was close to 11.00 am when we left Yapahuwa and on the way to Mahawa we had a fried rice Brunch (Neither breakfast nor lunch) at a nice place called Shanthi hotel located 2-3km away from Yapahuwa. Food was good and the prices were reasonable.

Then it was the time to look for two iconic landmarks located in the ancient route from Dambadeniya to Yapahuwa and no sooner we were in search of Karagahagedara Ambalama.

We went passing Mahawa, Padeniya, Wariyapola, Katupotha and got to Kadahapola junction via B166. From the junction, moving forward about 100-200m towards Narammala on B247, Black archaeological name board could be seen on the right where the by-road named Boraluwala road towards left should be taken. We took this road until a T junction was reached and turned right. From there, on the newly carpeted road, edges are demarcated by white lines. We followed that road where we reached a Y type junction where we turned left following the white lines and after few hundreds of meters, Karagahagedara ambalama could be seen on the left just by the road. This ambalama is well known by the locals around Kadahapola junction and it is easy to get directions. A search of “Karagahagedara ambalama” in Google maps will locate it easily. But the road running near Ambalama is not marked in Google maps.

Directions

What a place to have a rest

seating structure

On stones to prevent mainly termite attacks

Roof structure

Kenimandala

Well fitted

Next destination was a deviation from the theme of our excursion but no doubt, it was a gem embedded in this golden historical land. So without any hesitation this beauty was added to our list, the only waterfall (according to literature) found in Kurunegala District, Wadakada falls. This waterfall is associated with the writings of the famous poet Wadakada Nawaratne.

We came to Narammala and took B247 towards Kurunegala and turned right to B177 towards Wadakada town. Wadakada town is a small bazaar located about 4-5 km away along B177, from the turn off from B247. From the bazaar there is a junction where we had to turn right. After about 1 km there is a small bridge where the stream forming the falls is flowing underneath. Just after the bridge the road bends to right and runs parallel to the stream. After another few hundreds of meters, top of the falls can be seen from the road and there is a short foot path going downhill to reach the base.

View from the top (from the road)

The beauty

Main section

Plunging down

The other section

Downstream

After enjoying the beauty we came back to Narammala with the intention of visiting Panavitiya Ambalama which exhibits a magnificent collection of wood carvings resembling Ambakke Dewalaya.

From Narammala we came towards Dambadeniya along B308 to Metiyagane. After passing Don Bosco, Metiyagane, next turn off towards right should be taken up to Kajugas Handiya, a prominent 3 way junction. At the turn off from B308, archaeological board is available and there is a car audio equipment shop named Randi Motors. Kajugas Handiya Bus stop is marked in Google maps. From the junction we turned left and after 1-2 km Panavitiya Ambalama can be seen on the right hand side inside a land surrounded by a barbed wire fence and a gate. It can be located by searching “Panavitiya ambalama” in Google maps.

Find it…

Entrance and Ambalama

Undergoing some restoration work

Inner structure

Carved wooden pillars

This too is placed on stones

Nicely done

Wonderful structure with carvings

Carving on the collar beam

So fine carvings

Almost every piece of wood is carved

The ridge pole

Unbelievable

Pillar top carvings

Another pillar

Exceptional

A dancer

Angam fighters

Fighters

Gajasingha

Which bird is this?

Flower

Another

After witnessing the glory of Pananvitiya Ambalama, we rushed towards Dambadeniya to visit Maliga gala. Unlike Yapahuwa, kings’ palace complex is located on top of the rock and therefore called Maliga Gala. There is a stone paved stairway to the top.

Palace complex had been constructed by wood and it is no more in existence other than the foundation around the courtyard. There are three ponds on the top. Ancient temple of tooth built by the King Parakramabahu II can be seen in the premises of Wijayasundararamaya. There is an archaeological museum too which we could have visited prior to other activities but at the time it was closed.

Entrance to Dambadeniya arch. site

Steps. These were built recently. Original path starts from another place close by. Land where original path is running is not owned by dept of archaeology. So they have built this path in their own land.

Remaining walls

The stairway. Only one or two persons can proceed at once through the narrow point. This is to reduce the speed of enemy troops proceeding, in case of an attack

Narrowed down

View from the top of the stairway. Stairs towards left running down are the original stairs. Foot path running straight is the one we came.

View from top of the stairs

Paddy

Carved steps

Raja sabawa

Pillar bases

The palace complex

Ma wee pokuna. Evidence for the presence of a shelter is seen

View of the palace from top of the rock

Steps towards Rathmal Pokuna, the largest

Rathmal Pokuna

The path

Mukunuwenna pokuna

View from Mukunuwenna pokuna

View from the rock

Dambadeniya Wijayasunderaramaya

The temple

Dalada maligawa

The structure

Upper floor

Outer wall paintings

Beautiful

From the front

Entrance

The door. This is fixed to door frame without hinges

Handles

Buddha image inside

Roof paintings

Stone altar

Chethiyagharaya, the in house stupa of Wijayasunderaramaya

It was 5.45 p.m. when we decided to call it a day. At the end it was an unforgettable journey ploughing through the history of the glorious royal cities.