Visiting the Symbolic Representation of the Living Buddha – Pic Journey 10…

“Who’s been to the Dalada Maligawa or Tooth Temple?”

I know it’s one of the silliest of questions I could’ve asked you but I had to ask it to enter my fairy tale. I’m sure most of the Sri Lankans regardless of their religion have visited this magical place on earth where the Left Canine Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha that was retrieved from the sandalwood funeral pyre of Kushinagar is kept. This is also visited by many foreigners and as the statistics reveal it is the second place visited mostly after the Elephant Orphanage at Pinnawala. At an estimate about 80-90% of all the tourists pay a visit to Dalada Maligawa.

“Ok now how many of you have been fortunate enough to see the Tooth Relic Dagoba?”

Now the numbers starting to diminish, don’t they? There are hundreds and thousands and millions of people who go many miles just to get a peek at this beautiful and holy Dagoba when it’s unveiled for the public during the rituals and special occasions. Now you might want to confront me asking what they carry on the elephant back during the Esela Perahera. Isn’t it the same Tooth Relic Dagoba? Well I don’t know for sure and I don’t think it is either. It will be a huge security risk for the sacred relic to take it on elephant back through those streets. I’m assuming it probably is a mock-up of the original holy Dagoba.

“Now how many of you have been that extra fortunate to have seen the Tooth Relic Dagoba at close quarters in its own residence?”

Well, I doubt if the numbers are anywhere near a respectable amount. It’s so difficult to get such an opportunity. It’s not only that but also you must be very lucky to be able to get that closer to the holy Dagoba. You can get this opportunity if you manage to obtain an almsgiving to the Dalada Maligawa but trust me, it’s like once in a blue moon you get that lucky. The other is that you need to have a contact of the guardians of the Tooth Relic which might (I repeat might) pave the way for a close viewing.

Ok, we got the chance from the latter and were extremely lucky to have witnessed this Holy Relic Dagoba at almost touching distance. Ok, let’s get to the story at hand now that I’ve done my boasting.

Tour Highlights:

1. Gadaladeniya Temple.
2. Lankathilaka Temple.
3. Embekke Kataragama Devalaya.
4. Dalada Maligawa.

We left for Kandy around 8.30am (so much late for my liking) on a bright sunny day. It felt very awkward to travel with 10 members in a crammed van with very little space to move about. There was hardly any talk of the usual topics and we by and large remained quiet. After a lot of delays and traffic jams (travelling along A1 is a true nightmare regardless of the day and time now) we arrived at Pilimathalawa around 1.30pm and decided to go see the three main attractions closer to the main road.

Gadaladeniya Temple

Gadaladeniya RMV was built by the King Buvanekabahu IV in 1344 according to an inscription found on site. This beautiful temple is located on a flat rocky hill in a village called Diggala. It’s believed that the chief architect was a South Indian named Ganeshvarachari thus giving it South Indian architectural design. Kandyan-era King Sri Veeraparakrama Narendrasinghe handed the guardianship of this temple to Ven. Welivita Sri Saranankara Thero sometime in 1707-1739. During the King Parakrambahu VI (1412-1467), this temple was renovated and whitewashed.

The image house of the complex is the oldest building. There are similar architectural designs identified between this temple and Natha Devalaya, Kandy and Nalanda Gedige, Matale.

There’s a bit of confusion when it comes to the real name of the temple. An inscription has indicated this temple as “Dharma Kirthi Viharaya” which is believed to be the name of the founding Buddhist Monk who initiated the work. The “Nikaya Sangrahaya” however differs from it and identifies this temple as “Saddharmathilake”. To make things more interesting “Saddharmalankaraya” identifies this as “Gadaladeniya Viharaya” probably after the village it is located.

For more details, refer to this link.

The history

Entering

Let’s go in and see

Tiny image house, there are four on the four sides

Most of it faded

Even the wooden door is full of paintings which is common in Kandyan-era

Inner walls

The elephant carvings of granite were a common sight too

Another of the four entrances

Interior

Inner walls as usual full of fading paintings

Ok, let’s move on

Some more elephant carvings

The main image house still under renovation

Tiny pond in the courtyard

Just a single flower

Just look at that

Going to the image house

Artistic steps

Guard stones

Tiny elephant carved of solid granite

Along the steps

The granite frame at the entrance

Pillars carved from granite

Lions’ carvings

Solid three-legged wooden bench

Found inside

The main statue

One of the two paneled door

Safe and secure

See the artwork?

Paintings on the door

Some more

Huge Buddha Statue

Side angle

Monumental Relic Casket

An old metallic statue

Relics all around

Interior of it

Side by statues

Another

Can see a good Makara Thorana overhead

Moonstone at the hall adjoining the hall

Damaged at places

Some more subtly carved ones

Another

Well time to go

Final look up the top

Lankathilaka Temple

Lankathilaka RMV which was built during the Gampola Kingdom was built at the crest of a large rock named “Panhalgala” overlooking the Hantana Mountain Range in the Hiripitiya village off Gadaladeniya. This too was built during Gampola-era under King Buvanekabahu IV. Senadhilankara, he king’s chief minister, had taken the initiative to build this temple and given the task to another South Indian architect named Spathirayar.

According to the legendary archeologist Dr. Senarath Paranavithana this had been used as both a Buddhist Temple as well as a Hindu Kovil for worshipping. He further states that there are similarities found in the Nagayon Temple in Pagan built in the 11^th Century. This proves that there’s a mixture of Indo-China architectural designs used in this.

Another very interesting thing is the statues of Gods Vishnu and Saman depicted with their wives. According to the archaeological officer on site, this is something not found or depicted anywhere else. You can see these above (on either side) of the Buddha Statue in the main image house. If you visit on a Wed or a Sat, you should be able to see them in the respective Devalaya too.

For more details, refer to this link.

History

Entering

Muddy ground

This is one of the entrances to a Devalaya

This one was off the main complex

If I’m not mistaken, this is God Aluth Nuwara Dedimunda

Time to explore

Two different drums for the festivals

Dagoba

Clear blue sky is missing

This was at the base of Dagoba on the rocky surface

Going to the front

In the distance, you can see the Hanthana

Main image house is through this

Wanna go

Saw a similar one at Gadaladeniya

The pavilion in front of the entrance to the image house

Locked doors

Ok, let’s go

The moonstone like place

Makara Thorana

Guard stones

Just by the door to the interior

Looks ancient but not sure how old

Looking down at the pavilion

Just before the door side by side

Not sure what this represents though

The door that leads to the inner sanctum

Top of it

The main image house with a huge statue

Portrait

Makara Thorana but note the two gods either side with their queens

Other statues

God Vishnu with his wife

And God Saman with his wife

The roof still in good condition protecting the statues

Wall paintings in good quality

Some more

Zoomed

Ceiling

Hansa Puttuwa, the significance is that there are 4 swans whereas the typical one has only 2

The original statue that King Buvanekabahu worshipped

Time to move on

Long hall

Brief description of what it is

The entrance to the temple

The roof

Before we left

Embekke Kataragama Devalaya

Embekke Devalaya was built in 14-15^th Century was initially used as the Audience Hall (Magul Maduwa) by the Gampola-era kings. It was later converted and dedicated to the Sinhalese War-God Kartikeya or popularly known as God Kataragama.

According to archaic documents and the epic Embekke Varnanawa composed by Delgahagoda Mudiyanse, it was built during the Gampola period of King Wickrema Bahu II (1371 AD). One of his consorts named Henakanda Biso Bandara, in association with a drummer named Rangama, as told in a miraculous dream, is supposed to have built this Devalaya and dedicated it to God Kataragama in a superb three-storied building which is now no more.

In the Drumming Hall (Dig-ge), are to be found sculptured in the medial panels of the wooden pillars on the beams conventional Sinhalese designs of the Swans, the Double-headed Eagle, the Woman growing out of the Vine, Bacchanalian Figures in Characteristic Pose, a Wrestling Pair, Dancers and Soldiers, Men and Women in fluent and graceful movement. These unique carvings display the skills of the ancient masters and bear testimony to the craftsmanship of the school of wood sculptor of the period.

The roof of the Embekke Devalaya bears some ingenuous revelations of classic carpentry masterpieces in fixing the rafters. The ‘Madol Kurupuwa’ is one of the finest examples of medieval carpentry excellence. It is a wooden pin (Madol Kurupuwa) which holds together 26 rafters at the hipped end of the roof of the Dig-ge of Embekke Devalaya.

Some people mistakenly call this as the “Keni Madala” which is not true. The Keni Madala refers to a full circle of rafters joined together by one wooden pin but here at Embekke Devalaya, it’s only a half circle of rafters are joined together and is called Madol Kurupawa.

In terms of the wood carvings, there are 125 series of Decorations, 256 Liyawel, 64 Lotus Designs in Pekada, 30 decorative patterns on timber, roof members, making a total of 514 such exquisite carvings. The UNESCO has identified this as a unique set of wooden carvings which is not found anywhere else in the world.

For more details, refer to this link.

The legend

Entering

Main hall

Closer

Typical Makara Thorana

Lion depicted either side

This is inside; remember a similar statue was at Lankathilaka?

Ancient bells

Look at those locks

This is somewhat common

To the right of the main complex

This is where the weapons are stored

Tiny image house next to that

Wall paintings too

Still in good condition

Some more

Ceiling

Gods depicted either side of the Makara Thorana

Left

Another artistic lock

The door too is painted

Another angle of the lock

Go and see the famous wood carvings

First this

See the Madol Kurupawa

Count and see if there are 26 rafters. If there were rafters all around, then it becomes a Keni Madala

Wrestlers

Images

Images

All around

Images

Images

Images

Images

This is known as Kiwisum Muna

Images

Lion attacking a tusker

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

The rafters along the roof are too carved beautifully

Look at this

Another part of the complex

The Kitchen and the Storage of Grains

Main complex

Time to go

Temple of Tooth – Dalada Maligawa

As I’ve done a short introduction of our journey, we’ll go straight to the pictures. Mainly, I simply have no words to express the feeling of seeing the Sacred Dagoba at close quarters. It’s something one would get at a very rare opportunity. Please be warned that you can’t take pictures at such close proximity to the Dagoba but when it’s opened briefly, you might get lucky to take a long-range shot at it providing you’re in a steady position among the many who push and pull to take a peek with your camera ready at the right time.

By the way, it is not a secret that the barbaric terrorists attacked this sacred place in 1998 which caused a lot of damage but miraculously saved the holy chamber where the tooth relic is stored. Ultimately, those brutal terrorists were wiped out and it’s no secret that the attack on this holy site was the reason for the downfall for them. Archaeological experts from both Sri Lanka and overseas did a remarkable job of getting this back to what it was after the attack.

For more details, refer to this link.

Gloomy sky

Bogambara Tank, many call it Nuwara Wewa which is in fact in Anuradhapura

Common sight along the lake bank

Looks as if he’s got some kind of a disease

Sleeping

Funny way to sleep

Entering the main complex

Anagarika Dharmapala Statue

There it is with the moat

Most sacred place for the Buddhists

Paththirippuwa

Moat in the front

Paththirippuwa another angle

Going in

Colorful ceiling

Ground chamber of the Weda Sitina Geya or where the relic is kept

Gold plated fence protecting it from intrusions

Back entrance

From the image house next door

The upper chamber where the rituals are conducted

Main image house

Closer

Those white statues are mainly given by the countries like Thailand, Burma, etc.

Golden Buddha

Up close

The ceiling is very beautiful too

Many things to look at and worship

One of those statues

And another with a different posture

Another one

Oh, a tusker

See the carvings on it

How about now?

Roof

Buddha statues line all along the hall

Artistic work along the ceiling as well

The statues that line the wall

There were paintings too above the statues depicting special occasions of the Buddha’s life

Here is the evening rituals

Getting ready

Lower chamber

Flags hung along the corridors

Granite work

Here’s at the Paththirippuwa

Statues

Where people can freely go and worship

Another donation from one of the Buddhist countries

Another like the above

They kept it going

Been wanting to stay at the premises till dark

Beautifully lit

Like heaven

It only needed a full moon overhead

Ok folks, I hope you liked the pictures. I just wanted to keep you up-to-date with the latest set of pictures. Hope you like them and will get a chance to see the Representation of the Living Buddha with your own eyes. I couldn’t have asked for a better birthday gift. So tomorrow (it’ll be too late by the time you read this) I’m gonna have the best birthday.

This is Sri signing off for now and will see you with another story later.

Take care and keep travelling!