Neelagiri Hela (දකුණේ ආකාස චෛත්‍ය)!

The map – Click to enlarge

Neelagiri hela been the only prominent rocky mountain around Lahugala was on my list for many months not because of it been a mountain but the archeological value it had. Last year when I visited Neelagiri Sthupa I was told that there’s plenty to see around Neelagiriya in addition to the huge extensive complex of Neelagiri seya. The forest which engulfs this area extends for miles with ancient buildings belonging to Neelagiri monastery. I got the opportunity to re visit the gigantic sthupa with few of my colleagues few days back and when we reached the sthupa I met Amila who was on duty. My first question was “do you know how to get to the ruins at Neelagiri hela?” and he promptly replied by saying If I wanted he could show me the way.

It only took me 4 days and I was all ready to explore Neelagiriya. With a short notice Amila and Priyanjan was prepared to join me on this venture. My self and Amila proceeded to Arugam bay because we had some spare time until Priyanjan arrived and we spent it by visiting Muhudu maha viharaya, Thune kanuwe ruins and Lahugala Kotawehera. I would only mention few words about 3ne Kanuwa ruins here because I had already written about the other two places previously in an old report. 3^rd mile post ruins could be seen beside Potuvil – Siyambalanduwa road and only few pillars and a Pagoda was found at the site. From here we proceeded towards Kotawehera where we enjoyed some panoramic scenery and headed towards Lahugala. After meeting up with Priyanjan we took a tuk tuk and arrived at the Neelagiri Sthupa. Other than Amila(guide) , Danushka and Krishantha also joined us. We were followed and routinely disturbed by two dogs and out of them the black one almost gave us death scares by running towards us like a bear.

dawn at arugam bay

fishing at arugam bay

the only RDA board sponsered by department of archaeology

old pagoda

lonely pillar at 3ne kanuwa

kota wehera

forgotten era

kitulana tank

Komari

Neelagiri hela as seen from kota wehera

100% natural

restoration begun

We were now walking along animal foot paths with ears and eyes wide open since this is elephant country and closing on to the rock the chances of meeting sloth bears also increased. After about a 2Km hike we reached the opposite side of the mountain where the ancient steps towards the cave complex could be found. The steps were done craft-fully and guard stones were placed after every five steps or so. The steps ended at a cave with a brick wall and in it we saw frescoes on a plaster. Only few parts were spared by time and local visitors who have scribbled on it. The colours were green, red and orange mainly and it seemed there was a painting behind the Buddha statue which once stood in this image house. Close to this image house there were few more caves connected to each other and some were filled with fallen pillars and rock plates. Some even did have inscriptions and well carved drip ledges signifying the importance of this place.

the hut where the arche boys spend the night

off we go

deiyanta bara wenawa

elephants have rubbed the back

bin kohomba

A.R=Archaeology reserve

steps to heaven

more to climb

a cave with a drip ledge

guard stones

moon stone

still in good shape

entrance to the cave

Budda statue vandalized

what remains

more

culprits

patterns

another cave

note the inscription

more remains

cobra hood

outlet

remaining wall

note the plaster

our friend

We decided to get to the top of the mountain so we proceeded uphill from the caves. The dried out fallen leaves were ever so challenging but somehow we managed to get to the top. The mountain has two parts and we climbed up the western peak which had a huge rocky plateau. The endless view towards many wildlife parks and forest reservations was simply a bonus. The cleared off Neelagiri sthupa was noted as a mini mountain in the greenly dry zone forest. One could enjoy a panoramic view of Lahugala national park, Lahugala and Kitulana tanks, Komari forest, Yala, Kumana and Kudumbigala areas, Arugam bay lagoon, Komari lagoon, Magul maha viharaya, Kota wehera and mountains of Gal oya which includes Wadinagala, Govinda hela and etc. All over the summit pieces of pots could be found and also we came across two Pagodas. The lower one had a circular drainage cut which protected it once from dripping water along the rock and the main sthupa which once stood tall all mighty on the summit was said to be the glorious “Akasha chaitya” of Magama kingdom (according to El. Medhananda thero). Now only few bricks could be found at this historically important sthupa. There is also a 6’ tall stone wall bordering a Bo maluwa at the edge of the mountain which still stands tall. After raising the fallen flag we decided to begin our downhill journey which was done cautiously.

almost at the top

rest after a tough climb

stay away

the blue sky

towards wadinagala

degal hela

Pano of lahugala

Neelagiri seya

more to walk on

the old rock wall on the rock

maragalakanda

pottery pieces

the twin summit

potuvil…komari

Lahugala

not edible

protection to the pagoda from water

beauty…so close to the ocean

wow

colours

Akasha chaitya of magama

a rock pond

shadow of the cloud

kudumbigala

kotiyagala, yala

our flag

our second trouble

After getting to the base we decided to visit some ruins said to be remains of a palace. There were a row of pillars placed as a wall enclosing a ruin site and from there we climbed up few steps which were carved on a rock to get to and interesting cave where plenty of Vedda paintings were found. As always seen Vedda paintings brings me extreme ecstasy. We saw paintings of few veddas, a flower and few four legged creatures. The vedda paintings part was excluded from the cave at a later stage when it was redone and offered to the monks, the wall which separates the paintings justifies our observation too. The drip ledge inscription of this cave was so unique in the sense it was so small and hardly noticeable. We returned back to the ruin site and had our afternoon lunch before we started our return journey towards Neelagiri sthupa.

After a highly satisfactory adventure we reached the mighty Neelagiri sthupa and lied down for half an hour before saying good bye to our newly met friends and headed back towards our destinations.

giant foot print

a boundary

remains of the maligawa

an altar

steps

Vedda drawings

samber painting

a flower

more drawings

miniature inscription

the wall seperating the drawings

the cave

getting back

open area

team minus Priyanjan and the two doggies

elephants at lahugala

Thanks for reading!