Year and Month | 31 Dec, 2013 |
Number of Days | 1 |
Crew | 2 (Tony and Me) |
Accommodation | N/A |
Transport | By Motor Bike |
Activities | Hiking, Photography, Archeology, etc… |
Weather | Excellent |
Route | Wattala->Peralanda->Thewatte->Walpola->Gampaha->Asgiriya->Gampaha->Pilikuttuwa->Uruwala->Maligathenna and return to Miriswatte and along Kandy road. |
Tips, Notes and Special remark |
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Author | Sri Abeywickrema |
Comments | Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread |
“Good morning Sri Mahaththayo!” – Tony calling with his typically cheerful tone.
“Good morning Uncle” – I can’t help teasing him.
“So, what are you doing now? Any plans?” – That’s how we laid the foundation for this unbelievably rich peep into Siyane Korale on New Year’s Eve.
It never fails to surprise me how much there is to see in this tiny jewel of an island. What amazes me more is the things to see and places to visit closer to home but go unnoticed more often than not.
It’s been during one of those adventures Tony came up with the notion to explore things in and around Gampaha, the Siyane Korale. He’s closed to the area and knows most of it like the back of his hand. To make things interesting he’s also come across a paper article about some mysterious caves located close to Asgiriya, Gampaha. Probably you will hear more about them one day, fingers crossed.
However our Antarctic-esque hike to Sri Pada kept the journey waiting till the very last day of 2013. So on the 31st morning I left for his place where I had a snack of special Roties with tasty Sambol.
We left around 8am on his good old Motor Bike which had all the faults imaginable in a bike.
Tour Highlights:
- Peralanda Tank, Ragama
- Kapuwa Tank, Ragama
- National Basilica, Thewaththa
- Walpola Tank, Ragama
- Ananda Bodhi Temple
- Henarathgoda Botanical Gardens, Gampaha
- Asgiriya Temple, Gampaha
- Henarathgoda Ancient Railway Station, Gampaha
- Pilikuththuwa Cave Temple Complex, Pilikuttuwa
- Walagamba Maha Viharaya, Uruwala
- Maligathenna
Peralanda & Kapuwa Tanks
We took the Mabole-Ragama-Thewatte Road passing Peralanda. These two tanks have become victims to the so-called development. People living around seem to dump their garbage to these at will destroying the eco-systems.
National Basilica, Thewatte
From Ragama follow the Thewatte road. This was the largest in the whole of Asia when it was built but there could be bigger ones now built. This Basilica was a symbol of peace as the core reason for its building based on a vow to see the most destructive thing to the humans ever-known to date, the Second World War.
Walpola Tank
From Thewatte, take the Walpola road. This is the biggest among the 4 tanks located in and around Ragama. Unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to visit the fourth. This is somewhat less affected by the urbanization as it’s bordered by a temple and has a “Seema Malakaya” in the middle with a bridge running up to it just like the Gangarama Temple.
Ananda Bodhi Temple
This came as a surprise when Tony said that there is a Kovil-like temple and suggested we visit it too. It turned out to be a replica of the sacred Buddhagaya Temple in India and had built around 15 years ago. This was found on our way from Walpola towards Ja Ela-Gampaha main road bypassing Ganemulla town.
What fascinated us most was the immaculately kept garden full of flowers and fruit trees. There was a Sapatilla tree full of fruit and the monks had done a great job of covering most of them with polythene but leaving the ones at the top probably for the birds and squirrels. It has a branch from the Original Ananda Bodhi in India. The whole temple looks like a flower garden with various kinds of flowers blossoming beautifully.
Henarathgoda Botanical Gardens, Gampaha
First started in 1876, this must be one of the oldest Botanical Garden in the world. Once you’re on Ja Ela-Gampaha road, you will see the back entrance of the garden 300m from the main road. There is a signage with the directions given. For our surprise, the gate on this side was unmanned and buying a ticket didn’t seem necessary whereas from the main gate, turning left from Gampaha-Udugampola road for 300m, requires to buy tickets and very strict rules are in place.
We took the main gate and you can take your vehicles right inside (there is no parking space available outside as what little invaded by the hiring tuk-tuks). However there is a fee to be paid (I’ve given the fees chart on a pic). Taking a camera too is tricky as they have rules limiting that. You gotta buy a ticket for Rs. 1000/- if you taking a camera, especially an SLR. The security is kinda divided about the rule when it comes to small point-n-shoot cameras so I’d advise you to keep it in your pocket coz they made arguments and counter arguments about my camera and in the end, thanks to the gent security staff (the female one point blank refused to let me through without a ticket or permission from the authorities) we were waved through.
The garden boasts the first rubber trees planted in Sri Lanka; unfortunately the very first one had been fallen down due to the storm in the 80s. There are even a couple of playgrounds available too which you can reserve for a fee. This garden is very popular among the couples in Gampaha and nearby areas. By the time we entered there were about 150-200 couples all over the place and we felt like invading their privacy. All the benches, tree roots and stones were fully booked even the grass beds were not spared. There even is a man-made lake with paddle boat rides provided for Rs. 200/- for half hour if I’m not mistaken.
They even sell plants for a nominal fee and they are guaranteed to grow better than what you’d buy at Haggala or other upcountry places as the weather is very similar to Colombo.
Asgiriya Temple
Our next destination was Asgiriya Temple which is further ahead the Udugampola road. The main complex is on a small rocky hill and the climb is not too difficult but not a walk in the park either.
There are two telecommunications towers close to each other on the top which is a very distinct feature. You can easily identify the Asgiriya rock as a result. The view was superb but fierce sunlight made things very difficult especially for taking pics. Maliga Thenna, the highest point in Gampaha district was visible in the distance. There is a very large cave with drip edges too.
Henarathgoda Ancient Railway Station, Gampaha
This is the first station in Gampaha established in 1864, nearly 150 years ago. Many seem to miss this even though it’s almost adjacent to the current Gampaha station. If you walk along the railway from the flyover towards the station (about 100m) you can see this just before the main station with a sign. It’s a very small structure about 12′X12′ and now being used as an archeological office. If you come from the bus stand, you can see the front of it.
Pilikuththuwa Cave Temple Complex with 99 Caves
We were knackered and all the walking and climbing just after Sri Pada hike slowly taking its toll. We reached Gampaha just after 12 noon and met one of the good friends of us who is a key member of Lakdasun as well. (I’ll keep his identity a secret)
It was the first time I saw him in person even though Tony is very closely in association with him. He helped us get the details of Pilikuttuwa and directions too. Not stopping there, he invited us for lunch and called home to inform that two extra mouths of Lakdasun on their way. His wife had very kindly obliged and prepared a fabulous feast like lunch at a very short notice. Both of them were very hospitable and welcomed us warmly including their youngest 19-year old son. However the two dogs (in fact brothers) were a bit worried and made their thoughts clear. Gladly for us but for their irritation, they were confined to the cages. After a grand lunch and a wunnerful (as the Americans say) chat, we bid farewell to them, vowing to look them up should we happen to roam close to their place again, and were on the Gampaha-Radawana road.
Passing the A1 (Colombo-Kandy) road you will come across a Y junction and take the right hand road. After a short distance is this Pre-historical cave complex according to the monk at the archeological office on site. He said the temple and the structures are mainly belonging to the Kandy era even though the legends claim King Walahamba (the King of Caves) too was staying around. According to the notice the whole complex has 99 caves and most are still clearly accessible.
Be Warned:
“There are paths from Pilikuttuwa to the Maliga Thenna, which is the highest point in Gampaha district, through the dense forest. However this jungle is infested with all kinds of very venomous snakes. So walking through the forest is something you should never do on your own. Even with a guide (a villager coz there are no dedicated guides as such) you gotta be extra careful, I’d not personally recommend doing this. There are leopards too, not the big ones though (what we call “Handun Diviya” and “Kola Diviya”).”
There clear sign postings and a view point called Belum Gala provided panoramic views all around. We could see the Maliga Thenna in the distance but the jungle was very scary. Looking from there the whole area below looked lush green which is quite unbelievable as we were within 25km of Colombo and didn’t expect to see so much green let alone that big a forest there. We even came across a cobra near the archeological office which intensified our fears greatly. The monk there is very knowledgeable about the history so don’t forget to talk to him should you ever visit the place. We even told him about the Lakdasun and he was quite impressed.
Walagamba Maha Viharaya, Uruwala
Going from Pilikuttuwa towards Maliga Thenna we saw the board saying this temple and stopped for a brief visit. As the name suggests this too had been a frequent visiting place for the King of Caves and his footprints are left here too.
Maligathenna
Passing this we continued further towards Wathurugama along Miriswatta-Wathurugama road till the destination.
This is the highest level in Gampaha district and at the top gives you a 360-degree view, ideal for a fortress. The midpoint of the rock is the temple and there is a sideways path to the summit through a very narrow gap between two rock boulders which is a very strategic point when defending the fort against invading forces. This place is very similar to Dambadeniya rock, almost identical in many ways.
At the top has a pond and a Stupa constructed on a stony foundation which is original and could’ve been the foundation of the palace. We could see miles into the horizon on all around. Tony found the number of telecommunications towers visible from the top is quite impressive; he counted more than 50 on one side. Again the amount of green amazed us to no end and I was very glad. Pilikuttuwa Belum Gala was clearly visible from here and there were people and monks getting things organized to have a Pirith Chanting Ceremony on the top of 1st Jan night which was the following day. It’d be amazing to spend a night camping on the top but not sure if it’s allowed.
We decided to recollect the passing 2013 and savor the final sunset of the year at this majestic location. The clouds mercilessly didn’t offer the best of the sunsets but we managed to get a good enough one to treasure in our hearts forever.
That’s my Pic Journey 2 and you might have noticed that I have added more details than my Previous Pic Journey. This is more like a cross between that and a fairy tale and hope you enjoyed it all the way.
The Video of Setting Sun from Maligathenna…
Take care…
Panos…