Historical Gall Fort /ගාලු කොටුව

Galle is the capital of southern province. Galle fort is the icon of Galle and it is the largest fort built by Europeans in Sri Lanka.

History of Galle Fort

The history of Galle fort goes back to Portuguese period. Portuguese have reached Galle on 1505 November 5^th as their first arrival in Sri Lanka. But they mainly focused on trade and Colombo port was the main port of SL at that time. Gradually they have established the power on coastal areas of Sri Lanka and built a small fort at Galle since 1509.

Portuguese has built only a part of the current fort including “Zwart Fort” / black fort with three bastions. Portuguese have started in building the fort in 1509 and Constathenu Sa the Portuguese archaeologist has arrived in 1618. According to his instructions, they have added three Bastions to Galle fort named as Sun Bastion, Moon Bastion and Star Bastion. Therefore this fort was an earthen structure with palisades covering the northern inland side with a rampart and three bastions.

Dutch captured the Galle fort in 1640 March 13^th under the guidance of Ad. Jacobs Coster and by 1658 they have captured all forts were belong to Portuguese.

Dutch archaeologist called Raick Lork Wadan Hope came to SL and gave instructions to expand the fort over 90 acres including 14 bastions, stores and some essential components of the fort. Dutch started the construction on 1669 and finished it by 1742. (Over 73 years)They have used about 500 labours per day for the constructions.

Galle fort came under the control of British in 1796, it remained their southern headquarters. They made many modifications to the fort such as closing the moat, building of houses, a light house and new entrance between Sun Bastion and Moon Bastion.

In 1988 it was declared as a UNESCO world heritage site. It’s official name is Old town of Galle and its fortifications.

I have visited at Galle fort twice but those were not in meaningful way. This time I wanted to read about the fort before I visited there. There were number of literature about Galle fort and my guide was “Galu Kotuwa Haduna Hati”-ගාලු කොටුව හැදුන හැටි the book written by Mr.M.H.Siriwardana. This was more likely be a solo expedition and Sanjeewa joined with me at latter half of the day.

The map of the fort

This map is displayed in front of Marine museum at Galle Fort.

Catalogue for the map. Click image to enlarge.

What I could see at Galle fort

There are two entrances in Galle fort named as old entrance (built by Dutch-1668) and new entrance (built by British-1873). We usually enter the fort through new entrance situated behind Galle international stadium. One of the war memorials can be seen in front of the new entrance. Once you entered through new entrance, heritage memorial (උරුම ස්මාරකය) can be seen. This was established in 1992 to commemorate the beginning of Galle Heritage fund.

New entrance of Galle fort

The War memorial situated in front of new entrance.

Heritage memorial at Galle fort.

What is written there.

I entered the fort and walk along the fort wall in anti clock wise pattern. I came across different Bastions along the fort wall.

A Bastion is a structure projecting outward from the curtain wall of a fortification, most probably angular in shape and positioned at corners. It is one of elements of styles of fortification from 16^th to 19^th mid-century.

There are 14 bastions attached to the fort wall and three of them were built by Portuguese named as Sun Bastion, Moon Bastion and Star Bastion.

Moon Bastion (චන්ද්‍රා අට්ටාලය)

When you stand facing to the new entrance, Moon Bastion is in your right hand side, just in front of clock tower.  The moon can be nicely viewed from Moon Bastion and it was built by Portuguese. Moon Bastion was severely damaged in Dutch-Portuguese war but Dutch has renovated it. This was the Bastion which had most number of artily were placed. And it is the highest point of the fort which is at 70 feet from sea level.

Fort wall, Clock tower and Moon Bastion.

Clock tower and Moon Bastion. Provincial Engineering office and RDA office are situated just behind the clock tower.

Moon Bastion-The highest point of Galle fort.

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Moon Bastion and clock tower

Moon Bastion of Galle Fort. Photo was taken in 2012.

View of Galle Cricket stadium from Moon Bastion

St. Mary’s Cathedral at Galle.

Samanala play ground is seen to Moon Bastion.

Renovation of Moon Bastion

Anthonis Clock tower (1882)

Famous clock tower is built behind the Moon Bastion and it was to commemorate the first Sri Lankan doctor who received M.R.C.P from London University-Dr. P.D.Anthonis. . Provincial Engineering office and RDA office are situated just behind the clock tower

Anthonis Clock tower.

Anthonis Clock tower.

Anthonis Clock tower.

At base of clock tower

Information of clock tower. But this letters are faded.

Star Bastian / Zeepunt (තාරකා අට්ටාලය)

This is situated next to Moon Bastian in right side of the fort. This Bastian is placed at northern end of the fort and Dutch called it as Zeepunt. There was a water spring closer to Star Bastian.  Dutch have built a prison near to Star Bastian to punish slaves used in constructions of the fort.

Star Bastian is situated at northern corner of the fort.

View of Army camp from Star Bastian. This Army camp was the place of old gun powder mill.

View of Moon Bastian and clock tower from star Bastian

Playing football at Samanala play ground

Aelos Bastian, Clippenburg Bastian, Neptune Bastian and Tritan Bastian are next four Bastions situated after Star Bastian. Dutch have built these four Bastions and all of these facing to sea. They have attached six artily to Aelos Bastian and Clippenburg Bastions. Neptune and Tritan Bastions were built by the Dutch governor called Petirathas.  There was a wind mill at Neptune Bastian to spray sea water into the fort to minimize the heat. Tritan Bastian had gun powder artily which can rotate.

Aelos Bastian is faced to the sea.

Along the fort wall. You can’t walk over fort wall at this area as an army barrack is situated.

Clippenburg Bastian.

Neptune Bastian, Tritan Bastian and Kodigala Bastian (far)

Neptune Bastian

Neptune Bastian and fort wall

Tritan Bastian

Flag rock Bastian (කොඩිගල අට්ටාලය) was the next one I met when I passed Tritan Bastian. This was built on a large slab rock and red flag was placed on a tree at this Bastian to give signals for ships coming to Harbor. In 1936 this flag tree was burned by a fire. Nowadays sea jumpers dive into the sea from Flag rock Bastian.

When you walk from Aelos Bastian to Flag rock Bastian, Rampart Street is in your right hand side. Sri Sudarmalaya temple (ශ්‍රී සුධර්මාලය විහාරය) and Rampart Hotel are two important places situated at Rampart Street. Sri Sudarmalaya temple was built in 1889 at a place of old Roman Catholic Church was situated.

Sri Sudarmalaya Temple.

Ships coming to harbor

One of the streets seeing to fort wall

Flag rock Bastian

Flag rock Bastian. Sea jumpers are jumping to see from there.

Rampart Street

.	Rampart Hotel

Fort wall and Tritan Bastian

Flag rock Bastian

Rampart Street is seen to fort wall.

Galle light house is seen to flag rock Bastian.

Point Utrech Bastian and Galle Light House

Next Bastian is Point Utrech Bastian but Galle Light house is built there. Utrech is a famous city in Netherland. As Kodigala was burnt, light house was built in 1940 to guide ships.

Galle Light House

Galle Light House. It’s light is situated 92 feet above sea level.

History of Galle Light House

Light of light house.

Dutch had a gun powder magazine adjacent to Point Utrech Bastian. It’s roof was made by a thick lime paste to avoid accidental fire. This was the place to issue gun powder to all Bastions.

Meera Mosque is built facing the sea in between Point Utrech Bastian and Flag Rock Bastian. It is the oldest mosque situated inside the fort and it was built in 1902.

Three storey Meera Mosque

Meera Mosque

Dutch gun powder magazine is situated adjacent to Galle light house.

Rampart Street gets a turn here.

Here I came to Rampart Street and continued walking along the Street.
Dutch Hospital (ලන්දේසි රෝහල) is a two storey building which is currently functioned as a shopping complex following renovation. This is situated in between Aurora Bastian and Arkes Loot Bastions and British used it as collector’s office.

Leynbaan Street and Bank of Ceylon. This is old Elignton Hotel.

Dutch Hospital functions as a shopping complex.

Condition of Dutch Hospital before it functions as shopping complex. Photo taken in 2012.

Dutch Hospital

.	Aurora Bastian and Dutch Hospital.

Arkes Loot Bastian at Galle Fort

An artily is placed at Arkes Loot Bastian.

Commander Willem Jacobszoon Coaster has commanded for winning troops who captured the fort from Portuguese. This Bastion was named to commemorate him as his birth village is Arkes Loot.

Walking over the fort wall ends at Arkes Loot Bastian as further walking is not permitted. The premises next to Arkes Loot Bastion occupies by the quarters of Port Minister. Dutch have bought breadfruit to Sri Lanka from and first Bread fruit (දෙල් ගස) was planted at this premises. Still this Bread fruit is seen there but public can’t enter the place without permission.

Here I came to Front cross street and walk over there. I have passed the Magistrate court which was next to Dutch Hospital.

Old police Barrack functions as Police training college.

Front cross street and Dutch Hospital.

Magistrate Court

Galle Maritime Archaeology Museum

Maritime Archaeology Museum

Dutch have built two storey warehouse to store different items including Gem, Pearl and spices. This building has been converted into a Maritime museum and opened for public in 1992. It was destroyed by Tsunami and reopened after renovation in 2009. Maritime Archaeology Museum gives a good idea on traditional Fishery in southern province and treasures found in maritime excavation.

Dutch warehouse was converted into Maritime Archaeology Museum.

Maritime Archaeology Museum.

Maritime Archaeology Museum

Maritime Archaeology Museum

Maritime Archaeology Museum

Dutch Old entrance

Old entrance of the fort is situated next to Maritime Archaeology Museum. Semicircular old entrance was built solely by granite stones and it’s height is about 20 feet. This entrance is 50 feet long and Dutch badge is attached on inner side of the entrance. British badge is displayed on outer side of the entrance.

Old entrance of the fort. Old gate is still use following renovation.

British Badge is on top of the entrance

Inner side of the entrance

Dutch Badge is on the entrance

Coming out through the fort entrance.

Once you come out through the old entrance, there is a path to old harbour. When you reached that jetty, you can see the Zwart Bastian / Black fort (කළු කොටුව) in your right hand side. The first most forts built by the Portuguese is called Black fort. This was the strongest Bastian situated at eastern side of the fort. As police DGI’s office is situated public can’t enter the area.

Jetty to old harbour

Black fort and Zwart bastion

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I again entered the fort through old entrance and walked along the Queen’s street. The post office and British Queen’s House (Dutch Governor’s office) situated on the other side of the Queen’s street. At the end of the Queen’s street I came to Church Street and the bell tower was noted in front of the entrance of Marine Archaeology Museum.

The Bell tower / Dutch Belfry (ඝණ්ඨාර කුළුණ) was placed by Dutch in 1701 to assemble people for religious activities. Later Dutch have built a Reformed church in front of this bell tower. Cummand ment Bastion is situated next to Bell tower. Cummand ment Bastion was built to protect Dutch Governor’s house.

Another building is situated at Queen’s street.

Entrance to Marine Archaeology Museum

Dutch Belfry. Commandment Bastion is situated next to Bell tower.

The Dutch Reformed Church / ලන්දේසි රෙපරමාදු පල්ලිය (Groote Kerk) is situated in front of Bell tower and it is one of the important buildings at Galle Fort.  Dutch have started to build the Reformed Church in 1752. The Dutch Commander Kasparin Yorn has built this church by his own money and his daughter was also baptized at this church. It is a two storey building with small up stair where Organ was placed. Windows of the church have colorful glasses. There are eight hanging lamps to illuminate the church.

The church is paved with grave stones from the old Dutch Cemetery. Tombs at church premises have engraved stone plates. These stone plates are made of Sand stones, Granite, Nise or Quality. Only officers of Dutch army and Dutch East India Company (Vereenigte Oostindische Compagnie-V.O.C) had permission to bury bodies here.

The Dutch Reformed Church won the Award of Merit of UNESCO Heritage 2005 for best conservation.

Dutch Reformed Church in Galle.

Entrance of the church.

There are five arched windows.

Inside the church. Note hanging lamps. Those are not functioning now.

Windows are decorated by pieces of colorful glasses.

Inside of the church.

One of the stone plates covering a dead body at church.

Stone plates representing graves at the garden.

In addition to Dutch Reformed church there are two other buildings situated in front of Dutch Belfry, named as Galle Library and Post Office Building. The post office building was named as British Commissariat store, Dutch Administrator’s and Assistant’s quarters)

Galle Library was established in 1842.

The post office building. British Commissariat store, Dutch Administrator’s and Assistant’s quarters

Function of Dutch Administrator’s office.

Here I have walked down along church’s street and passed All Saint’s Anglican Church (සියලු ශාන්තුවරයන්ගේ දේවස්තානය ) and Galle Fort Hotel. I was looking for another interesting place situated at LeyBann Street called Mansion’s Museum.

All Saint’s church is situated next to post office. A construction of this church begun in 1868 and the church was consecrated in 1872.

All Siant’s Church in 2012.

All Siant’s Church

Entrance of the church and seats arrangement.

Inside the church.

Painted glass at All Siant’s church

Mansion’s Museum (6.026468, 80.218888) is the largest private museum in Sri Lanka located at a house built by Dutch. This house belonged to a Dutch Officer and bought by a Muslim and renovated to it’s original state. Arrangement of this house is interesting. Rooms are situated around the mid yard and a well situated at mid yard. There are number of antiques are placed at this museum including weapons, jewelries, furnitures, kitchen items, ceramics etc.

Entrance to Mansion’s Museum.

Galle Mansion’s Museum. Antique items.

Ceramics at Galle Mansion’s Museum.

Galle Mansion’s Museum.

The well situated at mid yard of the Museum. Stone plaque engraved as V.O.C with year-1763 can be seen here

After spend my time at Mansion Museum I returned along the Church Street and passed Amangalla Hotel–අමන්ගල්ල හෝටලය (previous New Oriental Hotel).

The building next to Amangalla Hotel was National Museum at Galle. It is another interesting place to visit. This building was built in 1656 and used as Artily Solder’s store. National Museum was opened at 1986 and it gives a good description of Portuguese and Dutch effects in Sri Lanka.

Amangalla Hotel. (New Oriental Hotel-1864)

National Museum (Old Artillery Soldier’s Store-1686)

National Museum and Amangalla Hotel.

Fish mark Bastian / Wish mark Bastian is situated just in front of National Museum. Again this was built for the safety of Dutch Commandment.

Wish Mark Bastion is situated in front of National Museum. Amangalla Hotel is also seen in this picture.

My last place of visit of the day was Sun Bastian (සූර්ය අට්ටාලය) which is situated on the left side of the new entrance.

Sun Bastian of the fort. Old Gymkhana club tennis court (currently named as Mahendra Amarasooriya Park) is situated in front of Sun Bastian. Here I came to the new entrance where I started the journey in the morning.

St. Joseph Chapel. Another church situated at fort

Summary of the places of visits at Galle Fort

• Bastians-Fourteen in numbers.

Moon Bastian, Star Bastian, Aelos Bastian, Cippenburg Bastian, Neptune Bastian Tritan Bastian, Flag Rock Bastian, Aurora Bastian, Akersloot Bastian,       Commandments Bastian, Fishmark Bastian and Sun Bastian.

No permission to visit Point utrech Bastian and Zwart Bastians.

 

• Two entrances-New entrance (British) and Old entrance (Dutch)

 

• War memorial and Heritage Memorial

 

• Anthonis Clock Tower

 

• Museums-Three in numbers

Maritime Archaeology Museum, National Museum and Mansion’s Museum.

 

• Churches-Four in numbers

Dutch Reformed Church, All Saint’s Church, St. Joseph church and Methodist Church

 

• Temple-Sri Sudarmalaya Temple

 

• Other buildings of interests-Dutch Belfry, Dutch Hospital, Meera Mosque, Dutch gun powder magazine, Fist breadfruit tree (no permission), Amangalla Hotel, Galle Light House, Black Fort (no permission), Galle Library.

 

Thanks for reading